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Hi, my name is Mike and I first joined this forum in 2003. I haven't been on it for a few years...the Norton's been sitting and I've been very busy with other things. My bike is a '74 (12/73 production date) that I bought in '89 as a rolling basket case. Originally, it was the JPS color scheme with the white tank and side covers with a big blue stripe. I bought the bike for $500 with the intention having a fun project bike and not spending too much on it, but that plan quickly was replaced with the goal of a full restoration. 10 years later I had a completely disassembled bike, a powder coated frame and boxes of NOS and upgraded parts that I had aquired during the '90s.

At that point I had neither the time nor the skills to put it back together again so I found a local guy who was in the Brit bike business and contracted him to reassemble it. The end result is shown in the photo below. Pretty bike. Some of the upgrades/changes I made were that I added a Hyde forkbrace, an AP racing caliper, an 11" Hyde disc, Clubman rear sets, an NOS Norris SS cam and I also asked for the head to be shaved about .030" to give a compression of around 9.3:1. All bearings and bushings were replaced along with Mark III isos.

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The bike wasn't fully sorted when I got it back and the guy who did the work closed up his shop. Over the next 10 years I'd have these periods of fits and starts when I'd be able to concentrate on it, but I never got it to run right consistently. The main problems were erratic idle and stalling in traffic, which with a kick start only bike can be a big problem. I also noticed that it vibrated a lot, especially above 4K rpm, and even though the engine and Isos had just been rebuilt, I got the feeling that there was something fundamentally wrong that was causing the vibration, and that was keeping the engine from holding a tune. A few years back I got so frustrated with it I just parked it and ignored it.

A few months ago I found another shop here in town took the bike in for a professional opinion. They got it running again and got it to idle and not stall, but also had the same thought as me, that it vibrated badly above 4K unlike a normal Norton. The vibration was so bad that it would spit gas from both carb flooding holes above 4K. So, the decision was to ride it (or sell it) like it was or tear it down and find the source of the problem. My decision was to tear it down and fix it...during the 20+ years of ownership and lots of money poured into it, I'd only had a few rides that I actually enjoyed, and I really wanted to feel what a nicely sorted Norton was like. The photo below is what it looks like right now.

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Here's what we found:

1) The isos rubbers front and rear were undersized and loose in the housings, and the rubber was very hard. These were replaced as new units 10 years ago when the bike was reassembled, but maybe they were very old stock, I don't know. Also, there was no indication that they had deteriorated from the vibration...they were just small and hard. They've now been replaced with new ones that are the correct size and much softer.

2) The head was shaved down to the bottom cooling fin. The "pad" on the bottom of the head that is shaped like the head gasket was completely gone. This is probably .080" of material removed and would lead to a CR of around 10.5:1. This was clearly not my intention when I asked for a little more compression. Not exactly the best choice for a street bike and could contribute to vibration. Rather than to mess with base gaskets and thick copper head gaskets to drop the CR, I found a replacement RH10 head with stock compression.

3) After reviewing the spec sheet for the Norris SS cam and getting a few opinions on it, I recognized that it's probably a little too hot for a street bike, especially one that has erratic idle problems. It will be replaced with a JS Motorsport Stage 1 cam kit.

4) Finally, in statically balancing the pistons and rods, the shop found that one side weighed 7g more that the other. A little more inspection revealed that the pistons were identical, the rods (both big and small ends) were identical but that wrist pins were off by 7g because one was .125" shorter than the other. The short one is probably from a 750. When the engine was rebuilt in 2000, the pistons were replaced with new Hepolites so the chap doing the rebuild had to be aware that he was using two dissimilar wrist pins. Pretty shoddy work.

The crank balance will be checked and set as required and the engine reassembly should begin next week. Other changes that are being made now are that I sent the cases out to CNW for the breather mod, and I'm also going to have the JS Motorsport flatslide carbs installed.

Sorry for the long post, but this Norton has been a very long journey for me. I'm am SOOOOO looking forward to riding my smooth running and well-sorted Commando after all this time. I'll post more comments when I get the bike back.
 
nice !
and the hard lesson learned - not all those who claim to be norton (or british bike) specialist really are!
 
It seems the decision to restore rather than buying a sorted restored Norton can get pretty expensive very quickly :roll:
 
mikegray660 said:
nice !
and the hard lesson learned - not all those who claim to be norton (or british bike) specialist really are!

Singing 'dem "Lone Star State Blues"... :roll:
 
It seems the decision to restore rather than buying a sorted restored Norton can get pretty expensive very quickly

Ain't that the truth...

Beautiful bike Mgrant. Congratulations on choosing to put her back on the road.
 
The JS stage 1 will need will need that extra compression too. You may want to re-think the head replacement idea. If the 10.5 to 1 is just too much, you can add a compression plate at the base. Maybe 20 thou, but you are going to need some comp. for that cam.

Talk with Jim about this to see if he will grind it to suite stock compression or to find out what you really need. You may just want his stock grind. If you can possibly afford it, check out his radius lifter kit and have him grind the cam for that.

Study up on these option and again, talk to Jim at JS.
 
That's a good looking bike mgrant, i shall be watching your progress eagerly. Glad you kept faithful with the Norton and didn't give up, especially now its nearly sorted
 
The JS stage 1 will need will need that extra compression too. You may want to re-think the head replacement idea. If the 10.5 to 1 is just too much, you can add a compression plate at the base. Maybe 20 thou, but you are going to need some comp. for that cam.

Talk with Jim about this to see if he will grind it to suite stock compression or to find out what you really need. You may just want his stock grind. If you can possibly afford it, check out his radius lifter kit and have him grind the cam for that.

I had similar concerns so I did speak with Jim before ordering the cam kit (includes radiused lifters and shortened pushrods), and I just reconfirmed with him. His input is that the Stage 1 is not a radical cam and works fine with an otherwise stock engine with the 8.5:1 compression. He doesn't recommend any more compression than around 9:1 for a street motor to avoid pinging.

Based on what I've read on this site, I think that the JS flat slides will also help with a little more performance and driveability plus get a more stable idle.

It's 70 degrees, sunny and mild here in Austin today and I'm not working. Man, I sure wish I had the bike back for a spin through the Hill Country...
 
Long road to hoe . Ditching the Concentrics isnt going to hurt any .

Cams , the Combat cam in town can be a bit of a chore to ride , unless you dont mind acceleration and mobile obstacles ( cars ) on the same track :oops: but then again , its just ' Eager ' .
Bit of attention required , the stock cams a bit more relaxing , seamless from Zero to Redline .
That said Id still go for the SS , bigger carbs , and a decent air cleaner . Id have a damn good look inside the oil tank to if the wrench was that backward , just to be sure .
 
mgrant said:
Based on what I've read on this site, I think that the JS flat slides will also help with a little more performance and driveability plus get a more stable idle.
Ya, I got a set of them too. The cam, the lifter kit, and the carbs are quite the combo.
 
Matt Spencer said:
Id have a damn good look inside the oil tank to if the wrench was that backward , just to be sure .

I had 2 oil tank failures during the sorting process, surely due to vibration. When I changed each of them I didn't find metal shavings or anything to be concerned about in the tanks. I kept one of the failed tanks and sent it to CNW for their mod and powder coating. It's a very stout mod and the workmanship is outstanding. It will go on with all the new hardware.

Regarding the comment about the "backward wrench", when I saw the crappy quality of the mill work that was done on the head previously, I asked the shop doing the current work not to assume that anything was done right previously and to check everything. I've got a lot of confidence in the guys doing the work now.
 
Well, finally back on the road. Balance of the piston/rod assemblies is now perfect. The crank was slightly heavy in one spot and that has been addressed, stock balance factor used. Put over 80 miles on it today and it feels like a completely different bike. I've had this bike as a long term project since '89, and today was the first time I rode it when everything just felt right. Some random observations:

The JS Motorsport Stage 1 cam with the BSA style radiused lifters is spectacular. Good low end, big in the middle, and comes on hard at the top. I didn't take it past 5K because I'm breaking in new rod bearings, rings and the cam and lifters, but it feels like the power will hit really strong between 5K and 7K. This is a less radical cam than the Norris SS it replaced, but it is definitely stronger. Interestingly, the JS cam kit has much less valve train noise than the Norris cam with flat tappets. Also, the exhaust sound seems deeper and throatier. The guys at the shop that did the work are really impressed with this cam also.

The stock compression head gives up probably 2 points in CR to the one with the botched milling job I replaced, but you can't feel it in performance, actually the opposite is true. The combination of the JS cam kit and a well-assembled engine makes for a much stronger package than before.

Along with the new power, the bike is much, much smoother. The combination of the finely balanced rotating assembly and new Norton sourced isolastics makes this bike really smooth. It's a little buzzy below 2500, then it starts to smooth out, then above 3K it's very smooth. You can still feel vibration, but it's not unpleasant at all...it just lets you know that there is a big motor under you.

The CNW breather mod seems to work as advertised. I don't know if I'm getting any more power from this, but after my long ride today there are no oil leaks, seeping, weeping or anything else. I just went out to the garage to look and there are zero drops of oil under the bike. No sign of any oil from the vent tube from the oil tank either. If you are going to split your cases, this is a very worthwhile mod.

The clutch used to have a heavy pull and was pretty notchy, but the clutch stack height was good. My mechanic installed a Venhill teflon lined cable and it is now truly a 2-finger clutch pull. Amazingly light.

So, after nearly 23 years, I finally got the bike I wanted. Damn, it feels good.
 
Hello Mgrant,

How good is that? You hung in there and are now rewarded. Hope the weather is kind so you can get to know your bike in the coming months.

Cheers Richard
 
Nice looking ride , I'm jealous!! I've had a '69 basket case forever and can't see when I'll be getting to it. Bought a complete '75 MKIII that I'm sorting out instead. Maybe when the kids are bigger I'll get around to the '69. Enjoy the ride, glad it worked out for you, they're definately cool bikes. Cj
 
The CNW breather mod seems to work as advertised. I don't know if I'm getting any more power from this, but after my long ride today there are no oil leaks, seeping, weeping or anything else. I just went out to the garage to look and there are zero drops of oil under the bike. No sign of any oil from the vent tube from the oil tank either. If you are going to split your cases, this is a very worthwhile mod.

That's what the reed type PCV valves are all about. Oil leaks. In spite of what some may think, continually replacing crankshaft seals, modifying tach drives and the like is not the answer. Getting rid of crankcase pressure is the ticket to stopping most oil leaks. If you get more power by installing a PCV valve, consider it a bonus.
 
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