Synth: Castrol v Amsoil v Redline v Mobil-1

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MEHAVEY

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I'm sandwiched between hitting the 650-700 mile point on running-in oil on a totally-rebuilt `71 750 engine ... and getting sliced & diced by the medicos where I will not in the mood to kick-start anything for 3-4 weeks.

I ( think I ) want to swtich over to full synthetic 20/50 this weekend before the white coats get me... but can only find Castrol V-Twin locally: Castrol RS V-Twin 20W-50 (min Zn = 0.12 = 1200 ppm)

Any reason this isn't good enough for the switch-over while I prowl around for the Amsoil hot lick next oil change?
 
Oh no, not the dreaded "which oil do I use" question. I don't know how many members are in this forum, but if there are 1000 that means you could potentially get 1000 different answers (and all of then be correct). So, for my two cents worth of contribution it is MHO that the Castrol oil you mention will serve you well !!!!!!!!!

GB
 
The queen is partial to Castrol HD 40 wt
Straight grade
Shaken not stired correct Mr. Bond?
Marshal
 
I agree with GB. I once went to a car rally and spoke with three representatives of oil companies (all of whom were Chemical Engineers) with specific questions about synthetic oils. All three gave me completely different answers and had different advice.

I think there is more snake oil (no pun intended), more misconceptions and more wives tales about motor oils than almost anything that I know of. The truth is very, very hard to determine.

My advice is to go with the oil who's sales pitch is most appealing to you. You probably can't go too far wrong.
 
SteveMinning said:
I agree with GB. I once went to a car rally and spoke with three representatives of oil companies (all of whom were Chemical Engineers) with specific questions about synthetic oils. All three gave me completely different answers and had different advice.

I think there is more snake oil (no pun intended), more misconceptions and more wives tales about motor oils than almost anything that I know of. The truth is very, very hard to determine.

My advice is to go with the oil who's sales pitch is most appealing to you. You probably can't go too far wrong.
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I agree. Although when I chose an oil for my Norton, I looked for one with a high zinc content. That's what old air cooled motors need most. The other thing I do is keep the oil cool. I added an oil cooler, with a thermostat.
 
I should resist the temptation to weigh in on an oil thread, but I highly recommend Redline brand products. The 20W-50 works great in my Commando's engine (high ZDDP content, too) as do the Shockproof Heavy gearlube in the gearbox and MTL or MT-90 (I haven't noticed any difference in operation) gearlube in the primary.
 
The Casstrol V twin should be fine designed for a simular type of agricultural machinery, though i wonder if you are changing over a bit early ie is your motor fully beded in as it will not continue to bed with a synthetic - to slippery.
just my apinion Al
 
Chri G told me the same thing (No synth now; continue w/ the next stage in break-in). So I've gone w/ conventional Valvoline VR-1 racing 20/50 for the next 1,000-1,200 miles. It apparently has as much ZDDP as anything out there for my purposes at this point. After that, a blended conventional/syth.

(Ya never learn so much as the night before the test.)

:)



.
 
I agree with JimC. High zinc content is needed for metal to metal like cam to follower contact. Amsoil MCV rates very high on many things like 4 ball wear test. It does not have the highest zinc level but almost. I feel it is the best all around oil. Recommended for motors calling for straight weight oils.
http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2156.pdf
 
I think cam wear is truly the Achilles heel for Nortons. Anything that lessens cam wear, I'm all for.
 
MEHAVEY said:
I'm sandwiched between hitting the 650-700 mile point on running-in oil on a totally-rebuilt `71 750 engine ... and getting sliced & diced by the medicos where I will not in the mood to kick-start anything for 3-4 weeks.

I ( think I ) want to swtich over to full synthetic 20/50 this weekend before the white coats get me... but can only find Castrol V-Twin locally: Castrol RS V-Twin 20W-50 (min Zn = 0.12 = 1200 ppm)

Any reason this isn't good enough for the switch-over while I prowl around for the Amsoil hot lick next oil change?
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Does anybody besides me want to dig into the break-in and synthetic oil kerfuffles, besides me? It's been way too quiet around here.

Mehavey, good luck on your surgery. You might want to print up some signs telling the nursing staff to wash their hands when they come in your room. DAMHIK
 
I wouldn't be overly concerned. Maybe another 1000 mile with a good Dyno oil would be a good thing.
 
I wouldn't be overly concerned. Maybe another 1000 mile with a good Dyno oil would be a good thing.
 
pvisseriii said:
I wouldn't be overly concerned. Maybe another 1000 mile with a good Dyno oil would be a good thing.
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Absolutely agree. I'm going to be starting my 75 for the first time fairly soon. I plan on Spectro 20-50 for the break-in. Couple of oil changes for sure. And in the end I will probably just continue using the Spectro. Just change it regularly.
kurt
 
I don't know how much zinc Spectro has, but if you are looking for a Dino oil with high zinc content I recommend Torco T-4M. It has a very high zinc content.
 
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