Swingarm clamps/Oil filter hose interference

I just (a few minutes ago) finished installing a pair of the swingarm clamps on my '73 850. However, with the clamps in place, the oil filter assembly cannot mount to the original holes because the right-side swingarm clamp interferes with one of the oil hoses to the filter. It causes the upper hole to be about 1/4 inch out of line.

The only solution that comes to mind is drilling new mounting holes in the engine/tranny mounting plate but I'd rather not do that. Has anyone else run into this? What did you do to solve it?

MexicoMike said:

I just (a few minutes ago) finished installing a pair of the swingarm clamps on my '73 850. However, with the clamps in place, the oil filter assembly cannot mount to the original holes because the right-side swingarm clamp interferes with one of the oil hoses to the filter. It causes the upper hole to be about 1/4 inch out of line.

The only solution that comes to mind is drilling new mounting holes in the engine/tranny mounting plate but I'd rather not do that. Has anyone else run into this? What did you do to solve it?

Click to expand...

not-another-spindle-thread-t5978.html

official-oil-line-routing-thread-t6132.html

Hope these help.

I redrilled the holes in the cradle. No big whoop. A little lighter, a little faster.

Interesting, I didn't have to move the oil filter mount at all.

pvisseriii said:

I redrilled the holes in the cradle. No big whoop. A little lighter, a little faster.

Click to expand...

Speed holes.

I just looked at the collars I installed on factory '72 that came with
oil filter already mounted in standard location.
In my case with the collars placed as far apart as possible, which
is up against the weld bead - the collars clear filter by ~1/2" on
the closes on the RH side.
I did take some care to visualize the spindle load bolt must
deal with and access to nip up, with lock nuts on the allen bolts.
My bolts are aimed from the front and bottom of spindle.

BTW its a gritty condensation prone area down there and
see my blued collars are rusting in patches so might want
to clear coat or paint for the long term as can see the bolts
would eventually fuse in place.

Its possible your oil filter did not get mounted right to
clear collars.

hobot

Part of my problem may be that I am using the holes that were in place for previous spindle locking screws that just screwed directly into the metal and that had no welded-on nuts to spread the load. I'll take a look at moving the clamps outboard further to see if that helps. If so, I'll drill new holes for the spindle locking bolts and plug the old ones with some modern miracle potion. Actually, I guess I could just put the old screws back in and have 4 spindle locks!

Ok bad placed original spindle holes would explain the fouling.
I vote put back back up bolts as plugs and spindle helpers and ant-seize or
mild loctite to keep rust to minimum. Once I get Trixie Combat collar
set un-rusted again, I'm spraying clear wheel paint on this time.
It's be a bit of a bugger to epoxy the holes and prevent intrusion
into spindle bore or ream out afterwards.

Btw does you spindle still allow fairly easy removal?
I've come across 3 now that were trapped so much only
destroying swing arm could solve. One by brutal
pounding and pullers and injury fracturing hands on missed
sledge hammer weary strikes, another with lession learned
torched off the Swing arm and took to bulldozer shop
that required 22,000 PSI hydrualic pressure reading before
spindle began to even budge, heated and lubed for
weeks of failed attempts prior, then 12,000+ PSI to keep
in moving out till the very end. ugh.
3rd one was friends '71, decided to just put collars on
and live with some slop. Fine for non racing usage.

hobot

I moved the collar as far right as possible (against the weld). The hose still presses against the collar but it does not prevent the oil filter assy from bolting in though it clearly takes a bit of pressure to move it into position. I'm concerned about the vibration although the surface of the clamp where the hose bears against it is smooth and fairly wide - there's no "sharp" edge. I tried using some of the spiral wrap but that makes it impossible to fit. In THEORY, the hose, swingarm clamps and engine/tranny all vibrate together so maybe it's not an issue. I found that there is nearly no interference if the oil hose is routed inside the engine/tranny plate and out near the airfilter. That's not where the hose was originally routed but there's no real reason it can't be routed that way. So I think I'll do that even though it will make the air filter harder to service.


The spindle removed easily with no drama at all. I happen to have a gear puller with the center screw having the same pitch threads as the spindle. I just screwed it in, used the gear puller arms as handles and it pulled out smoothly by hand . I have had it out several times over the past 6 months so I'm pretty good at this now!

Alrighty MexicoMike, looks like you going to get er licked.
I was able to route hoses+horn+oil filter+ collars via factory
paths, but hose must lay against something no matter what
if not re-engineering whole think like my Peel special.
I was able to use the metal armor sheaths but don't think
you will have a leak for a very long time, maybe never.

OH yeah I had treated robust puller on for my failed attempts.
A beefy automobile/truck shock absorber in my bin had right
threads. Nipped up just short of stripping threads or bending
wrench. I actually did dirve out my first really bad spndle
over about a week of hours of efforts and injury, Swollen
rust scabs and lipped spindle make drag mark grooved
in the impossible to drill through hard surface treatment.
NEVER AGAIN.

Renewed swing arm and over size spindle
they just push in and out by light force of
tapping a drift, no blood and guts trauma.
Never let the area dry out or next owner will swear on
your grave. I highly recommend the grease zerks mod.

hobot