Swing Arm leaks
- Thread starter Tim_S
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Why you, why not its a factory 750 Commando down there ain't it? I gave up and put grease zerks in both my Cdo's, then sealed up the spindle oil weep holes and gained favor of my daddies brother that lets me park inside the Palace. One NYC rider was sent tampex with his parts order, so assumed they knew it was a 750 git and will affix them under swing arm for dampness control.
Tim,
You can take those thin shitty original type of O rings to most parts shops and buy the same size, but thicker rubber rings, that should stop the leak nicely.
Be careful, if you replace the grease nipple, 1/4 UNF, you'll need to grind half the thread off them, otherwise the nipple will thread though and cause the oil ring to leak on the RH side ( the nipple pushes against the bush and pulls the seal open ).
You can take those thin shitty original type of O rings to most parts shops and buy the same size, but thicker rubber rings, that should stop the leak nicely.
Be careful, if you replace the grease nipple, 1/4 UNF, you'll need to grind half the thread off them, otherwise the nipple will thread though and cause the oil ring to leak on the RH side ( the nipple pushes against the bush and pulls the seal open ).
Hobot,,,,,,,, Maybe I should use one of my Depends? Cuz you never know when it's gonna leak? 
Josh,,,,,, when I went to buy the new O-ring's my parts guy gave the skinny type and I told him they were the wrong ones. He then went back and brought out the right size for me, so I assumed I was good to go. My 73' had a minor leak when I replaced the O-ring's on it but it stopped all by it's self. This new leak isn't minor........ :cry:
Tim_S
Josh,,,,,, when I went to buy the new O-ring's my parts guy gave the skinny type and I told him they were the wrong ones. He then went back and brought out the right size for me, so I assumed I was good to go. My 73' had a minor leak when I replaced the O-ring's on it but it stopped all by it's self. This new leak isn't minor........ :cry:
Tim_S
rvich
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Remember that these bikes also had an automatic chain oiler. It wasn't really that big of a deal in the 70s to leave oil on the road. I really think those seals are more to keep the dirt out than the oil in, but maybe I am just a skeptic.
I pulled my swingarm a year ago when I went through the process of recommissioning my bike. I pulled it again this year to put some Kegler Clamps on. Despite being really careful about topping up the swingarm last year and having all new parts in there, there was no oil to leak out when I pulled the cap off this year. But everything was nice and slimy with 90wt anyway. So I have decided to just top it up once in a while and scrub it off when it leaks out.
Russ
I pulled my swingarm a year ago when I went through the process of recommissioning my bike. I pulled it again this year to put some Kegler Clamps on. Despite being really careful about topping up the swingarm last year and having all new parts in there, there was no oil to leak out when I pulled the cap off this year. But everything was nice and slimy with 90wt anyway. So I have decided to just top it up once in a while and scrub it off when it leaks out.
Russ
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Make sure all the surfaces that bear against the orings are smooth/no burrs/nicks/rust/paint globs. I put in new Orings 6-8 months ago when I replaced the bushings and added the swingarm collars. Made sure everything was nice and smooth and filled with 140 gear oil. So far, not a drop has leaked. So I think it is possible to have them stay essentially dry - though I'll see for how long. 
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Tim, I had a small leak on mine I snuged it up last night and in the morning I had a big puddle. I think the end caps may just be bowing.
Phil
Phil
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Any source for 140wt gear oil out there that doesn't require buying it by the barrel? Thanks!
Anglophile said:
Isn't easy to buy it in England either.
I own a Francis Barnett with an old Villiers engine, these use 140 in the gearbox & primary drive. Luckily, Villiers services in England sell it by the litre. Don't know if you have any Villiers specialists over there, or maybe a vintage tracter specialist?
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Anglophile said:
I think I used this or something like it:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/access ... ier=977483
DogT
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Yeah, I used something like that from NAPA. It pretty much leaked out in about 3 days. I guess all I can do is fill it in the fall when I'm putting it away, let it leak out, and hope that it gets into the bronze bushings. At least I now have a stainless spindle and something similar to what ludwig did to his swing arm with extra Allen head bolts.
Dave
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Dave
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Maybe that's a good thing about living in Mexico. Quarts of straight 140 gear oil is in "automotive" section of the supermarket just down the street.
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To those whose 750 early 850 swing arms do not drool I highly suspect rust and grime clogging the spindle oil weep holes and getting about same protection as those drained dry. Just saying so verify they are open or I retain my disbelief. There is not much difference in 140 grade gear lube and 50 grade engine oil.
If you insist to remain pure to the polluting oiling then I suggest forget about gear lubes and go straight to 'engine honeys' like STP. Slaughter the sealing surface around o-rings with thick axle grease.
The sad thing is if bike just sits up for a long time the spindle drys out, rust collects and next owner rides around oblivious to the grinding past corrosion just adding new oil can't flush out. Ideally store with a big oil reservoir on seat and big pan under and check once a season or so. Rest assured the seals were designed to keep grime out not lube in.
If you insist to remain pure to the polluting oiling then I suggest forget about gear lubes and go straight to 'engine honeys' like STP. Slaughter the sealing surface around o-rings with thick axle grease.
The sad thing is if bike just sits up for a long time the spindle drys out, rust collects and next owner rides around oblivious to the grinding past corrosion just adding new oil can't flush out. Ideally store with a big oil reservoir on seat and big pan under and check once a season or so. Rest assured the seals were designed to keep grime out not lube in.
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Tim_S said:
But why worry (as we've gone through all this a number of times already) because the Commando swinging arm bushes are made of sintered bronze (Oilite)-which readily absorbs oil-so is a form of self lubricating bearing which only needs to be periodically "re-charged" with oil (not grease) so there's no need to keep the swinging arm bearing surfaces constantly "wet" with oil, simply relubricate the pivot at the normal service intervals.
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Use this. It works fantastic. And don't leak. Jim
http://www.jewellamberoil.com/
It is oil not grease and is perfectly compatible with sintered bushings.
http://www.jewellamberoil.com/
It is oil not grease and is perfectly compatible with sintered bushings.
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hobot said:
Genuine spindles should be hard chrome plated: http://www.andover-norton.co.uk/Pirate%20Parts.htm (and yes, I've got at least one amongst my collection of spindles which isn't!).
I think spindle corrosion is often the result of neglect? Lubrication of the pivot at the normal service intervals hopefully is enough to prevent it from ocurring?
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