Stock Alt/Gen and negative grounding.....

chopped850 · Jan 17, 2009

So the bike is almost dialed in. The carbs have new gaskets, new oil filter and oil with PCV valve in the breather line, voltage regulator installed and bike set up for true negative ground. It fires right up and runs great. The only thing I've found is the new battery stays around mid 12 volts and barely rises with the throttle. With the light on it is about the same. So I'm wondering if your going to make the bike a true negative ground do I have to change the alternator/generator to a negative ground piece? Or is the stock alt/gen not putting out enough juice? Tomorrow I'm gonna wire it for positive ground and see if it stays the same or changes.

kommando · Jan 17, 2009

The alternator pumps out AC, it does not know or care if the DC side is positive or negitive. You could have weak magnets in the rotor, a rotor should have enough magentism so it can support its own weight.

chopped850 · Jan 18, 2009

So if the magneto is weak will the bike still run without the battery? I'm going to take another look at the wiring tomorrow.

chopped850 · Jan 18, 2009

I wired it back to pos/ground and have a new issue. The oil line from the engine to the filter keeps wanting to blow off the tube coming from the engine. First it blew spewing oil all over the place. I repaired the line and it keeps wanting to push the line off. I have a new oil filter installed and a PCV valve in the breather line. What is going on now?

Jeandr · Jan 18, 2009

Maybe the filter is plumbed in backwards, I think oil filters have an IN and an OUT, probably for the built in pressure relief valve. I couldn't find anything on the web, but I seem to remember seeing arrows on the filter base.

Jean

chopped850 · Jan 18, 2009

Jeandr said:
Maybe the filter is plumbed in backwards, I think oil filters have an IN and an OUT, probably for the built in pressure relief valve. I couldn't find anything on the web, but I seem to remember seeing arrows on the filter base.

Jean

I didn't change anything. I installed the KN 135 filter. I started and rode the bike yesterday without issue.

RennieK · Jan 18, 2009

Try bypassing the pcv valve cause isn't that a new thing?

JimC · Jan 18, 2009

Do you have anything in the hose between the filter and the oil tank?

chopped850 · Jan 19, 2009

Tomorrow I'm gonna remove the PCV valve and see what happens. Jim I didn't see anything in that line as I blew them both out with the filter off to clean them out. I did notice yesterday after running the bike the PCV valve would hiss letting out the excess air. I think the breather should vent to the outside world like all other bikes do.

Jeandr · Jan 19, 2009

chopped850 said:
Jeandr said:

Maybe the filter is plumbed in backwards, I think oil filters have an IN and an OUT, probably for the built in pressure relief valve. I couldn't find anything on the web, but I seem to remember seeing arrows on the filter base.

Jean

Click to expand...

I didn't change anything. I installed the KN 135 filter. I started and rode the bike yesterday without issue.

I didn't catch the new filter, you could have a defective one no?

Jean

chopped850 · Jan 19, 2009

I don't get why it would run and ride on Sat. and shit the bed on Sunday? I don't think the filter is the issue and leaning towards the PCV valve as the bike should breath into the atmosphere and not the oil bag. Anyway I will figure it out in the morning.

bill · Jan 19, 2009

the vent has NO effect on the issue are having as they are 2 separate systems. some how you have come up with a restriction in the sump return system. my guess is to look at what was last done ( oil filter ) if it is plumbed backwards you will need a filter WITHOUT a check valve.

windy

JimC · Jan 19, 2009

Two people have given you the best probable solution for your problem, but you choose to ignore it. If your filter is plumbed in backwards and your old filter was a non-relief type you will not experience any problems. Switching to a filter with a relief valve will cause problems such as you describe. In any event, the PCV valve has absolutely no effect on the oil return line. Unless it is in the oil return line.

chopped850 · Jan 19, 2009

I'm not ignoring anyone's suggestions. I didn't change any oil line routes from what it was before. Does that K&N filter have a check valve in it? If someone else is running the same filter did you have to change the lines? So if I'm hearing you guys right I wasted $14 on a new oil filter that is a problem.

JimC · Jan 19, 2009

A K&N filter should work fine, providing you are not trying to force oil through it backwards. We are not saying you plumbed the filter incorrectly. It may have been incorrect before you acquired the bike. Worth checking out anyway. Never assume anything is correct on a previously owned bike. Obviously, you have a major obstruction in the oil return. Have you checked the oiling diagram in your manual? Bear in mind the blue (cool) is feed, red (hot) return. Just the opposite from what you learned in H.S. biology.

kommando · Jan 19, 2009

Posted this on your other thread as read that one first.

The K&N has an internal non-return valve, check your oil filter housing and cast into the housing above the 2 pipes entering it are IN and OUT, check the rubber pipe connected to the IN comes from the engine, and the rubber pipe connected to the OUT continues up to the oil tank. If they are connected around the other way no oil can leave the engine, blame the DPO.

chopped850 · Jan 19, 2009

It's all good in the hood. We pulled the oil filter off and found that the oil lines to the filter pod needed to be switched. The oil was feeding through the center of the filter and then pushed the rubber valve against the 6 holes. Switched the lines and now it feeds through the 6 holes and then through the center into the tank. Problem solved so far. The oil tank has a vent in the top that is a rubber gromet plugged with a screw. Took the screw out and now need to figure out a system for that. Now I just have to fab up the vent line to the crossovers on the intakes.

Thanks everyone for your input. It's just I have had one issue after another. It sucks cleaning up other people's band-aids to the problems.

chopped850 · Jan 19, 2009

I still have a charging issue though. I switched the wiring back to pos/ground and get the same reading on the meter with the bike running at about 12.59. Twist the throttle and it doesn't climb any higher than 12.7 12.8. SHouldn't it rev to 13 14 volts with the throttle?

Jeandr · Jan 19, 2009

chopped850 said:
I still have a charging issue though. I switched the wiring back to pos/ground and get the same reading on the meter with the bike running at about 12.59. Twist the throttle and it doesn't climb any higher than 12.7 12.8. SHouldn't it rev to 13 14 volts with the throttle?

Take out the regulator, and see what the voltage is, if it jumps really high, the regulator is faulty (could be bad grounds too, don't forget that). If the voltage stays pretty much the same, the rotor may have lost its magnetism. Use another battery too, the one you have may not be up to par (old, sulfated, bad electrolyte).

Positive or negative ground should be the same to the electrical system's ability to charge correctly.

Jean

BrianK · Jan 20, 2009

Do you really mean K&N 135? Or 153?

Stock Alt/Gen and negative grounding.....

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