STIFF clutch pull
- Thread starter gringolet
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- Apr 15, 2009
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Cable route
Stack height
Lever out of place
The usual suspects.
Stack height
Lever out of place
The usual suspects.
If you get through the usual suspects with no luck, try another clutch spring. There's more than one variant out there and they have different tempers. Mine was a beast and required damn near two hands until I changed the spring. Made all the difference in the world. Now it's a treat to ride! 
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If, after doing any work on the clutch that involves backing off the adjuster or removing the pushrod, the clutch pull suddenly becomes much harder than it was before, then one of the first things to check would be that the clutch actuator lever (that the cable connects to) has not dropped out of position?
The angle and position of the lever should look like this:
If the lever looks any different (lower), then it has probably dropped out of position, so the pushrod adjuster needs to be fully backed off, and the lever pulled back to its correct operating position as it is shown in the photo.
The angle and position of the lever should look like this:
If the lever looks any different (lower), then it has probably dropped out of position, so the pushrod adjuster needs to be fully backed off, and the lever pulled back to its correct operating position as it is shown in the photo.
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- Mar 30, 2008
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The Commando clutch is somewhat different from other Britbikes in that it uses a finger type spring instead of coil springs.
The irony of the Commando clutch as I recall was that it requires increasing pressure to disengage as the clutch plates wear. One of the keys to a lighter clutch is to make sure that the clutch stack (as someone alluded to), has the spring diaphragm fairly close to flat. OldBritts has a very good article on how to set up your clutch for minimal lever effort:
http://www.oldbritts.com/ob_clutch_info.html
They also sell various thicknesses of plates to adjust properly.
The irony of the Commando clutch as I recall was that it requires increasing pressure to disengage as the clutch plates wear. One of the keys to a lighter clutch is to make sure that the clutch stack (as someone alluded to), has the spring diaphragm fairly close to flat. OldBritts has a very good article on how to set up your clutch for minimal lever effort:
http://www.oldbritts.com/ob_clutch_info.html
They also sell various thicknesses of plates to adjust properly.
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- Apr 15, 2009
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pelican said:
You mean after checking all of the usual suspects you still have a stiff clutch?
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pelican said:
Not that I wasnt to tell you how to spend your money or time but measuring the stack height is cheaper and faster than getting a new spring and finding it doesn't work and THEN measuring the stack height.
Just saying.
I have an 850 with sureflex plates and a belt drive, so run dry. I also run with a Venhill 'featherlight' clutch cable and an RGM clutch pushrod seal.
My clutch is ONE FINGER operation with no drag, and no slip.
So it is possible, with the right setup.
In regards to stiff operation, I would say the stack height of the plates including the end plate should fill the basket, allowing just enough room for the spring and then the 'wills ring' clip to go in. This will set your spring about flat before any movement. The other two things to check are that your actuator has not 'dropped out of position' as shown above....BUT even more important...The actuator pivot housing MUST be locked in the correct angular position so as to avoid the cable fouling on itself due to angular missalignment with the cable shroud mount on the outer gerbox cover...otherwise it rubs badly on its outer sleeving. The clutch cable needs to be PVC lined like the featherlight cable, lubed well, and routed freely.
IF all this is good you should have a one fingered clutch....
If you want to avoid drag, slip and mess I would go for sureflex plates, belt drive and Rod seal, but then you need some cash...
Stu.
My clutch is ONE FINGER operation with no drag, and no slip.
So it is possible, with the right setup.
In regards to stiff operation, I would say the stack height of the plates including the end plate should fill the basket, allowing just enough room for the spring and then the 'wills ring' clip to go in. This will set your spring about flat before any movement. The other two things to check are that your actuator has not 'dropped out of position' as shown above....BUT even more important...The actuator pivot housing MUST be locked in the correct angular position so as to avoid the cable fouling on itself due to angular missalignment with the cable shroud mount on the outer gerbox cover...otherwise it rubs badly on its outer sleeving. The clutch cable needs to be PVC lined like the featherlight cable, lubed well, and routed freely.
IF all this is good you should have a one fingered clutch....
If you want to avoid drag, slip and mess I would go for sureflex plates, belt drive and Rod seal, but then you need some cash...
Stu.
maylar
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Also need to ask, was the clutch OK before the rebuild or are you new to the bike? Be aware that there are two setups for Commando clutches - the 750 and 850 are different. If you have the 4 plate 750 setup you also need the thicker 750 pressure plate. Mixing 750 and 850 parts could give you grief.
pelican said:
I was going to get CNW to do the hydraulic clutch conversion on my transmission but I ran out of money. Next year I think. My carpal tunnel is acting up on my left wrist and surgery will be in my near future so we'll see how my left wrist holds up this summer..........if I ever finish putting my damn bike back together.
For now I just bought the CNW easy pull clutch kit (Barnett clutch plates) so we'll see how easy it really is.
thanks for all the information...being
an all thumbs mechanic myself
I'll get a box of bandaids and hit the garage
with this thing! I had an 850 commando
new in 1976...sold it when my first child
was born...my son has bought this one, a 1972 750...
and clutch, primary allready in it....will start
with the easy stuff and work in to the plates
and springs. His purchase has me wanting a
commando of my own again!
an all thumbs mechanic myself
I'll get a box of bandaids and hit the garage
with this thing! I had an 850 commando
new in 1976...sold it when my first child
was born...my son has bought this one, a 1972 750...
and clutch, primary allready in it....will start
with the easy stuff and work in to the plates
and springs. His purchase has me wanting a
commando of my own again!
David Comeau has gone over the workings of the Commando clutch pretty well.
Follow the http://atlanticgreen.com/ndnsclutch.htm
Follow the http://atlanticgreen.com/ndnsclutch.htm
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