Steering stem/yoke removal

Evening all,

As you can see from the attached (linked) pictures, I've run into a bit of barrier in the shape of the steering stem. Essentially, I'm trying to avoid the brutish methods of the PO and instead inquire here, as to the removal procedures? I've been spraying it with penetrating lubricant but am having no luck pushing it form the bottom up. Is it just a matter of hitting it harder than I've been hitting it? Again, my main concern is to avoid damaging anything (notches, grooves, threads, etc.) or the stem itself for that matter.

Any and all wisdom is sincerely appreciated!

Aleks

Photos:

http://i.imgur.com/qTOi015.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/a62fXOs.jpg

Put the nut back onto the threads (to protect the threads), place a block of wood against the base of the stem (to protect the threads) and give it a hefty whack or 6 to drive the stem up through the bearings - any rust makes the stem stick in the bearings.

The bearings are cheap and probably due for replacement, but the stem (and yokes) are a little more expensive,
so well worth you asking before proceeding.
Penetrating oil can sometimes take a day or 6 to soak in, well worth being patient with too.

hopethishelps.

Mine was rusted BAAAAD. Using soft aluminum drift, I eventually won. Still deformed the spindle a bit. Crazy part is, the rest of the bike did not look "left out in the rain".

What I did was bolt the handlebars back on and turn from left to right against the stops on the frame. This "breaks"the rust that has seized the stem and makes it much easier to knock it apart.
Hope this helps.

I should have looked at your photos first. I now see that the bottom yoke has already been removed. As Rohan says, place the nut back on to protect the threads, place a block of wood over the nut and give 'firm' hits on the wood. Have someone support the frame so when you hit the wood the impact goes to moving the stem.
Hope this helps.

I followed the instructions in this thread and the bearings popped right out.

I had the same issue with the flood victim. Days soaking in PB, block of wood an sledge on the bottom nut and it still refused to come loose. After letting it sit for a couple more weeks, the block-and-sledge method was successful in getting the stem to move in the inner bearing races. After seal removal and cleaning, I repacked the bearings with grease, reinstalled the seals and called it good. The bearings rolled smoothly, there were no 'detents' and no rough areas.

Like most sealed bearings I have encountered, there was scant lubrication from new, so whenever I get a new one, the seals are pried out and the bearing fully packed with grease before resealing.

It might be better to use a press than a hammer ?

acotrel said:

It might be better to use a press than a hammer ?

Click to expand...

Probably, but anytime you put stress on the inner races, you take the chance of ruining the bearing. Even the manual-described bearing removal method entails offsetting the spacer tube enough to get a clear shot at the bearings with a hammer and punch.

I'm not sure how you could set the frame upside down in a press and have any surface to base on since the upper yoke covers the top of the steering head and I wouldn't want to press against the side of the large top tube. I suppose you could make a hollowed-out pad to spread the load across the entire cross-section of the big tube.

I was lucky in that the stem was only frozen to the bottom bearing and not the top also. Had that been the case, There would have been heat (and bearing ruination, for sure) involved in getting the stem and top yoke free.

Danno said:

.......Like most sealed bearings I have encountered, there was scant lubrication from new, so whenever I get a new one, the seals are pried out and the bearing fully packed with grease before resealing.

Click to expand...

Never heard of, or thought of that. It sounds like a real good idea! But you live and learn- I love these threads