Spliting cases

Just wondering what others have run into and did to get stuck together engine cases split w/o injury to mating surfaces, tools or mechanic? This concerns cases that bopping with big shot filled mallet and razors blades inserted don't do anything.

Drastic temp. changes sometimes help
Craig

As I recall there is a small bit of exposed metal on the timing side case that doesn't mate with the drive side case. Will have to look again tonight. I use a long rod and tap, gently, with a hammer at that point until the cases start to separate.

A while back I needed to split my cases and I rented a tool from OldBritts to do it.
Probably not really needed though.
The factory manual describes how to do it and unless cases fused big time should work.

A hide mallet on the pressure relief valve at the timing side.
Make sure all the bolts are out.
Tom
CNN

Imagine a narrow version of the clutch tool used in reverse across the top of the crank case. Long bolt sticking out one end. wind nut off the bolt pushing U clamp, will separated crank cases. Never needed this last times I did the cases but that just popped out of my head.
Dereck

CanukNortonNut said:

A hide mallet on the pressure relief valve at the timing side.
Make sure all the bolts are out.
Tom
CNN

Click to expand...

That it, the same way I've separated the cases.

If they are glued together properly so they don't leak, you may have trouble getting them apart, even with the mallet.
Dereck

kerinorton said:

If they are glued together properly so they don't leak, you may have trouble getting them apart, even with the mallet.
Dereck

Click to expand...

Well.... Hopefully they are not glued with JB weld but.... you never know with hobot. :shock:
He likes that stuff a lot.
CNN

Ya know by now I'm not shy of hi heat, big hammers, long levers, loud noises and blood soiling metal galling mechanics but hit my threshold of depression on brutal force again. Trixie cases are JB cold Weld repaired and sealed from blow up nut only Hylomar in between. Clutch spring puller idea is what I hoped to see. I've a piece of curved boiler plate fitted that should only take some screwing in and nut cranking before pops apart on its own but could break the boiler plate, crank or leave stud broke in the DS case so ain't worked up mood to risk it yet. Meantime found out I'd ridden few 1000 miles by pure magic grace on SuVee cutting out riding smooth hwys but bumping battery area fixed every time till recently traced it by instant fuse blowing fault in starter itself that will not spin engine when directly jumpered now. So in my skewed world a bad starter w/o prior hesitation to start causes loose battery terminals every few hours but waited to blow fuses till parked at home putting test probes on. Learned my lesson so will start with the ignition switch or turn signals first this time recovering it and Trixie can just sulk like Schrodinger's Cat till better mood. Saddest aspect is I don't like to ride SuVee compared to my plain ole Combat so even when SV working I more often take my cage.

There"ll plenty more surprises from your pen Hobot.
Dereck