Spanner List

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Hi
Am just looking to invest in tools on ebay and would like to know if anyone has a list of spanners sizes and sockets sizes that will be required for a commando restoration.
I particular any special sockets or spanners required.
As always thanks in anticipation Guys.
 
marknorton said:
Hi
Am just looking to invest in tools on ebay and would like to know if anyone has a list of spanners sizes and sockets sizes that will be required for a commando restoration.
I particular any special sockets or spanners required.
As always thanks in anticipation Guys.

Spanners and sockets alone won't go very far in restoring a Commando. If you intend to dismantle the engine/primary/gearbox - you will need SAE, Sritish Std and a few of the specialty tools. If only frame and body fasteners, you should be able get by with 7/16" to 3/4" SAE provided your machine is '72 onward.
 
Soory guys- I wasnt so clear... Am including special tools required.
Thx for your response David
 
Specialty tools I'll do from memory...here goes.
Clutch diaghram spring tool - only safe method to dismantle the Commando clutch
Crankshaft pinion gear puller
Crankshaft drive sprocket puller
points auto advance or electronic ignition reluctor puller
British std sockets for cylinder head nuts/bolts - especially the three in front
curved specialty closed spanner (box wrench) for that bugger of a cylinder to head nut in the center rear
British std spanner (open end wrench) for the two long cylinder to head nuts in the outer front - from under the cylinder barrel front corners.
Snap ring pliers

On assembly:
tapered comshaft seal tool so you can install the timing cover without damage to the seal.

Probably some more so will leave something for others.
 
You are going to need to cut down (flatten) a 9/16” wrench. This is for the back mudguard bolt. Also works on the little nut under the top fork tube nut. I made the handle because I wanted a little more leverage. You probably won't need it.

You will need to shorten a 7/32” allen wrench. This is for the Carb Manifold bolts.

I spray paint the tools I make so I don't think they are spares and salt them away in the tool graveyard where I can then never find them.


Spanner List


Good luck
 
If you want to take the sump plug out a 1 1/2" socket will work unless you have the early frame and then you are going to need a special thin ring spanner to get under the frame support, they are available. The 1 1/2" socket also works fine on the drive sprocket left hand nut if the inner mainshaft is removed. Don't ask how I know. The mainshaft inner cover nut can also be removed with a 15/16" standard socket, especially if you use 6 point sockets. Usually you can get a 7/16 (real tight) over a 3/16 BSW bolt, like the transmission quadrant bolts and some of the engine crankcase nuts. You will need at least one 1/4WW combination for the head and the crank nuts/bolts, 2 would be a real plus. A 1/4WW socket will be necessary and it will probably have to be ground down thinner (like mine) to get the nuts off the con-rods and as previously stated for that central nut on the barrel, you will have to grind down a 1/4WW ring spanner to get into the close fit central nut by the barrel.

Hate to say it, but in a previous life I have used 14mm for the 1/4WW, but I wouldn't recommend it, especially not a 12 point.

It is always nice and better to have the correct tools, just watch Mick's DVD's and you will know what I mean.

Dave
69S
 
Crankshaft drive sprocket puller - A steering wheel puller will work here. Or make one from a piece of 3/8' steel plate. Drill three holes, use a nut under the center bolt.

points auto advance or electronic ignition reluctor puller - I have one, but rarely use it. A light tap with a soft drift in opposite directions usually breaks the taper easily.

British std sockets for cylinder head nuts/bolts - especially the three in front - I like the inexpensive 3/8 drive Kokon (sp?) brand. Thin enough to clear the headbolts and inner gearbox cover.

curved specialty closed spanner (box wrench) for that bugger of a cylinder to head nut in the center rear - these seem to be getting hard to find. Mine is a Heyco and I have an old Triumph double ring that is short enough to work also. Might find one at a swap meet.

British std spanner (open end wrench) for the two long cylinder to head nuts in the outer front - from under the cylinder barrel front corners. - The other end of my Heyco obstruction wrench fits this. I also prefer to use a ring spanner (box wrench) here rather than an open end.

Acesa (Spanish) makes a nice set of British size combination wrenches that are decent quality and fairly inexpensive.

If you plan to do your own engine work, the pinion gear puller is a must. It can be pricey and if you only plan to do this once, I suggest you beg or borrow one. The cut down 7/32 allen wrench is also a must. Make one and stick it in the bike's toolkit. You'll use it often.
 
Thanks Guys.
Have started purchasing today.
Got clutch tool and crank puller.
Any thoughts on exhaust flange tool?
Are they worth purchasing?
Thanks
 
Most definitely.

I use a "hook spanner", you can usually find them at old tool sales and flea markets for a couple bucks.

The purpose-built flat plate tools also work well and the one with the 3/8 square ratchet drive hole can be carried in your toolkit.
 
For 850 exhaust nuts which I have in the 750 with Suzuki crush washers, I use a big ass pipe wrench. It tends to grasp the fins more uniformly rather than grabbing one fin with a spanner hook. I would not gorrilla these things, just snug them once in a while.
You could get a rifle scabber, sling it across your back and have that B.A. Aliminium pipe wrench hanging out going down the road. Very intimidating. Only a few will know what it is really for.
 
Pep Boys sells a trailer hitch ball double-box-end spanner that is perfect for the gearbox drive sprocket nut and oil sump screen nut.

Posi-Lock sells a 3" 3-jaw (thin jaw) puller that is perfect for any manner of Britbike pulling tasks.

You'll ned a valve spring compressor designed for the task, there are several simple C type models out there.

A clutch plate holder tool is handy to have, you can make one from a pair of plates (one each, plain & friction) and an 18" piece of 1/2" electrical conduit flattened on one end.
 
pvisseriii said:
I use a big ass pipe wrench. It tends to grasp the fins more uniformly rather than grabbing one fin with a spanner hook.

Strangely enough, my BMW exhaust nut spanner fits the Norton nuts as if it had been made for them, even to the extent of having gaps between the teeth at various intervals to accommodate the "wide" fin and it does the job better than the Norton exhaust nut tool!

Spanner List
 
L.A.B. said:
Strangely enough, my BMW exhaust nut spanner fits the Norton nuts as if it had been made for them, even to the extent of having gaps between the teeth at various intervals to accommodate the "wide" fin!

THAT IS FANTASTIC, but not very intimidating. Got a dealer down the road. Gonna have to price that one out.
 
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