Slotted cheese head screws at bottom of motor

Status
Not open for further replies.
DogT

DogT

VIP MEMBER
Joined
Jan 20, 2009
Messages
7,394
Country flag
I just found out today that those stupid slotted screws at the bottom of the motor that the head always gets bunged up trying to remove can be replaced with 1/2-20x1 1/4" (edit: 1/4-20x1 1/4") Allen head or sockets, unless you are a complete purist. Cool.

Dave
69S
 
Dave,

When looking at a Norton, that is always the first place I look.

Thanks for the tip.

Greg
 
Roger that, Dave. You can get them in stainless as well. Rocky Point and others sell the complete kit (or you can get them in pieces at a well-equipped hardware store). Just nip them up to 7-8 ft lbs. I liked the look so much that I'm doing the same conversion on my Beezer; it's a bit more painfull, with a few of the screws still clinging to BA standards.
 
In fact, 1/4" x 20tpi (UNC) fasteners can be used on the timing cover, rocker spindle covers, exhaust rocker covers (replacing studs), etc.

However, doing this is somewhat of a bodge as these actual threads are BSW (Whitworth) with a thread angle of 55 degrees (UNC is 60 degrees). I do it, and it works, so bring on the purists!
 
Are the studs that mount the cradle to the motor and the front iso to the motor also BSW? How about the 1/2" nylocks that mount in the isos? I know a 10-32 will almost fit in a 2BA, but not very good, like the gearbox inspection cover. I get real ones for that and the ignition cover.

Dave
69S
 
DogT said:
Are the studs that mount the cradle to the motor and the front iso to the motor also BSW? How about the 1/2" nylocks that mount in the isos? I know a 10-32 will almost fit in a 2BA, but not very good, like the gearbox inspection cover. I get real ones for that and the ignition cover.

Dave
69S
Click to expand...

You can run a 10-32 tap into 2BA and it works perfectly.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top