Slipery clutch keep me away from my own record on the 1/8 mile

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Like Bill said, RGM have moved the mean radius out, makinngthe plates ‘bigger’ effect. I’m wondering if one could achieve the same by removing some friction material off of Barnet plates?

Ken, you could easily pinch some holes in the unused portion of the bronze plates.

And, FWIW, RGM seek the narrow plates plates separately, if machining the old ones is too much of a PITA.

I did think of putting some lightening holes in the plates, but it was more work than I wanted to do on a street bike, where I doubt it would have much benefit. Same argument for using the stock steel plates instead of buying skinny ones from RGM.

I thought about seeing if Barnett would make some up with their material and a smaller ID, but when the RGM plates worked so well, I lost my interest in doing so. Might come back to this issue later if I have clutch problems with the 1006 engine.

Ken
 
Hi there, last week I strip the clutch and I discover nothing wrong, the clutch pushrod was almost dry, the plates where dry, and no oil on the plates, of course the plates are not new but still good, no glazing at all, the play on the pushrod was 1.5mm, so in my opinion the slipery come from a bit of everithyng, I will change the plates this winter for those from RGM.
I change my triplex chain for a dual chain from the chainman, this chain was waithing some years in my workshop and I find some wear on my triplex, so time to change, Andy the chainman tell me that the dual is stronger as the triplex, waith and see and I keep you posted about this in the future.
To day I road 100 kms to Wieze, the biggest classic bike show in Belgium and no isuses with the clutch.
Oh yes, I puy ATF oil in the primary case to replace the Harley Davidson primary oil I use before.
Thanks to you all for the good advices I find in this post.
Yves
 
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