Slipery clutch keep me away from my own record on the 1/8 mile

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I have drag raced my combat with highway gearing (21T) and did best by only using 1-2-3 in the 1/4 mile.
I always went slower by shifting to 4th.
Since I was not willing to shock my drive train, I raced using a slipping clutch start, and maintained fairly high RPM for the entire run.

drag racing/sprinting with AMC gearbox:
Taking consideration of the very tender AMC transmission case, which under careful study shows, the main casting has evolved with improved strength by Norton toward the end and further by after market versions.
The use or abuse during drag racing led to a modified style of racing that helped to spare the likely case destruction upon launch. That style was to limit the abuse by letting the rear tire spin vigorously with a very hard rear tire limiting the traction and shocking torque. This style is noted in classic bike magazines to produce the best times, while the gearbox consideration not being discussed.
This principle is apparently not necessary with the TTI gearbox.

drag racing/sprinting with commando clutch-triplex chain:
The power being initially transmitted (launch) is due to the engine spinning up the massive 21 lb flywheel and backed up by the heavy triples chain and heavy clutch assembly. It is using kinetic energy being separate from the engine pulling after the launch. The large mass of the power train could be considered as beneficial in drag racing/sprinting starts.

Racing commando with Belt drive VS chain clutch:
Most road racers will be aware if the benefit of a light power train such as a belt drive and freewheeling clutches or rear wheels as on modern bikes. Down shifts with highpower train mass and mismatched RPM in a corner can result in bad things. A light clutch and belt does not seem to me as benefitial for drag racing, yet in road racing a speedier pull away from a corner since you are not just putting energy in to a spinning heavy mass, you are accelerating the bike and rider..

clutch pack torque transmission:
"Sandblasting won't remove high spots from the plates."

To me a sand blast finish does not assure a FLAT clutch plate. This is why I prefer to dress the high spots that are glazed with the jitterbug sander. Even without BDM, I understand that the CF is only valid if the entire surfaces of the plates touch each other. Clutch plates and friction plates with a rough sand paper texture would likely abraid each other away with a hap hazard new surface with uncertain results of the uncontrolled reconditioning process.

I have a chuckle when people have to run the gearbox low on oil to prevent oil migration. I will counter with hundreds of positive feedback for clutch rod seal purchasers. It would seem if it was a farce, that I would not have just received my new order of a thousand CCRS after having now sold 6000.
Even at the 2016 Ashville NC rally, norton developer guest speaker John Favil (sp) mentioned the clutch plate development to try and solve the gearbox oil problem. He even mentioned "some fellow" had even developed a cure clutch rod seal. He did not realize it was "I"(dynodave) who preceded his talk by leading the rally tech session until he finally arrived the rally site.

My biggest disappointment is that even though it has been continuously available to commando owners since the early 90's and 4 revision updates to get to it's final form that CNW has now bootlegged my design.
 
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Dave

I use one of your clutch rod seals (belt drive). With a hard durometer viton oring and teflon tape on the threads.
 
Bernhard
Motorcycle synthetic oils used with Barnett plates on older Japanese bikes is what I meant.
My original 52,000 mile FJ diaphram clutch slipped, changed to Barnett fit and forget full clutch kit ( individual spring type) no slip since and coming up to 94,000 miles, still using 10w 40 full synthetic.
Gets plenty of high rpm use at times and loves it with no oil leaks.
These dedicated motorcycle oils work perfectly with a wet clutch and most modern bikes use it, so if you get clutch slip, somethings wrong with your clutch.
Next engine rebuild is modded 1978 Kaw Z1R 1075cc in my '65 Atlas, will use recommended Motul 300V 10w 40 full synthetic with Barnett clutch.
Comnoz got good results with the 20w 50 version of this oil in his tests for engine oil only Commando.
 
Yep, I use Royal Purple synthetic motorcycle oil in my FJ and it gives no clutch problems, but I added a half qt of XPR when we were on the road last year and that didn't work so well.
 
My biggest disappointment is that even though it has been continuously available to commando owners since the early 90's and 4 revision updates to get to it's final form that CNW has now bootlegged my design.


I've seen mention of your clutch rod seal for years, but until now, after reading the above comment, I had never looked into what it actually was. It appears to be a much easier device to use/install than I had imagined.

In regards to having competition in the marketplace from CNW, there's lots of things you could do to improve awareness of your product, starting with the information about the seal on your website; it's hard to find and the product information could certainly be improved. For example, the information at this URL is almost illegible: http://atlanticgreen.com/images/crsdwg.jpg

Your entire web site is loaded with invaluable information. Why not spiff up the presentation of the information, perhaps create a properly formatted PDF catalog/info document, and put an article or advertisement in the document about your clutch rod seal, plus the other products you offer?

You could also put a link to your website in your signature.


.
 
Just to add to the previous post, I’m no Cdo expert by any means, but I’ve had mine for around 5 years and frequented this forum for a similar time.

I don’t use a clutch seal as I don’t appear to need one, however I have two on the shelf, from different suppliers, both slightly different in design. One must be yours though dynodave, as it’s from hNw.

Nevertheless, until I read post #42, I had no idea that the inventor was indeed you dynodave.
 
Hi there
Becouse of my birthday party, I dont find the time so far to give fully attention on your more as valuable antswords to this post, I will do it soon
The party was great, 130 personns joint the event with a lot of legends from the motorsport and jet-ski, the party finish at 5 AM, so you can imagine that I am not very fresh at the moment, but so happy!
Thanks
Yves
 
One way of getting a clutch to work on a Commando drag bike. This one fits a vintage "quiet drive" basket and is retained by the standard circlip. Not in the slightest bit practical off the track needs needs a lot of space in the chaincase!
Slipery clutch keep me away from my own record on the 1/8 mile
 
https://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/main/product.asp?product=Type F Automatic Transmission Fluid and Power Steering Fluid&category=Transmission Fluid

https://www.google.com/search?hl=en......1..64.psy-ab..1.2.1952.6...232.g__86hNK2ss

What is tranny F oil?
Yves
Type F specifically excludes the addition of friction modifiers and requires fluids which provide improved shear resistance and oxidation protection, better low-temperature fluidity, better EP (extreme pressure) properties and additional seal tests...

In other words, it doesnt slip as much as 20w-50.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automatic_transmission_fluid

And I like the Barnett plates too, and run a mixed stack of them with the bronze plates.
 
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Hi there,
I ride the Seeley Codo to day, no slippery clutch anymore..;
I will strip the clutch this week and see whats happens and keep you posted
I don't think it can be notches becouse the clutch is not draging
I am wondering is ATF oil is good for the one way clutch from the Alton starter system?
Yves
 
I'm a little late to this party, but I also have some recent slipping clutch experience to relate.

I'll preface it by saying I've used the stock composition plates, as well as older Barnett plates in a 750 race bike with no problems, and eventually settled on stock bronze plate clutches in race bikes for a couple of decades with no slip issues, including with a very healthy 920 engine. I liked them because they didn't fade. But, I've now concluded that the principal reason they worked so well was that I was using a belt drive with a 1.75 primary drive ratio, in place of the stock 2.19. That reduced the load on the clutch enough that it didn't slip.

My recent experience with a street bike has been quite different. My grandson and I built a MK3 for him to ride a couple of years ago, and had serious clutch slip issues. We kept the stock MK3 primary drive, with bronze plates, but pumped the engine up to 883 cc and built it to be a mid-range torque monster (which it is!). The clutch slipped a lot under full throttle. We switched to the latest Barnett plates, and still had the same problem. On Jim Comstock's advice, I tried the RGM bronze plates. We also switched in a couple of thinner steel plates to add some more spring pressure, and that solved the problem. We've been using Type F ATF all along.

I was a little nervous about the bronze plates, because the material actually has a lower coefficient of friction than the non-metallic materials, but it looks like the narrower pad width more than makes up for that.

In any case, I'm now a believer in the RGM plates. The only drawback to them that I see is that they are a lot heavier than the Barnett plates.

I think you might get similar results by machining the stock bronze plates, and I've seen posts about that in the past, but I think I'll just stick with the RGM plates for now.

Ken
 
I'm a little late to this party, but I also have some recent slipping clutch experience to relate.

I'll preface it by saying I've used the stock composition plates, as well as older Barnett plates in a 750 race bike with no problems, and eventually settled on stock bronze plate clutches in race bikes for a couple of decades with no slip issues, including with a very healthy 920 engine. I liked them because they didn't fade. But, I've now concluded that the principal reason they worked so well was that I was using a belt drive with a 1.75 primary drive ratio, in place of the stock 2.19. That reduced the load on the clutch enough that it didn't slip.

My recent experience with a street bike has been quite different. My grandson and I built a MK3 for him to ride a couple of years ago, and had serious clutch slip issues. We kept the stock MK3 primary drive, with bronze plates, but pumped the engine up to 883 cc and built it to be a mid-range torque monster (which it is!). The clutch slipped a lot under full throttle. We switched to the latest Barnett plates, and still had the same problem. On Jim Comstock's advice, I tried the RGM bronze plates. We also switched in a couple of thinner steel plates to add some more spring pressure, and that solved the problem. We've been using Type F ATF all along.

I was a little nervous about the bronze plates, because the material actually has a lower coefficient of friction than the non-metallic materials, but it looks like the narrower pad width more than makes up for that.

In any case, I'm now a believer in the RGM plates. The only drawback to them that I see is that they are a lot heavier than the Barnett plates.

I think you might get similar results by machining the stock bronze plates, and I've seen posts about that in the past, but I think I'll just stick with the RGM plates for now.

Ken
Hi Ken,
I think to use the RGM plates in the future
Thanks
Yves
 
Ken
what the RGM plates has done is move the effective mean radius farther out from the center. you can do the same thing by machining the stock steel plates to a larger ID but like i posted they are hard to machine.
 
Ken
what the RGM plates has done is move the effective mean radius farther out from the center. you can do the same thing by machining the stock steel plates to a larger ID but like i posted they are hard to machine.

I've also seen it done by machining the stock bronze plates to remove the inner part of the friction material, but it looked to me like enough of a PITA to set up that I would rather just buy the RGM plates. The one plate that RGM supplies with the kit does have a larger ID. I thought about machining the stock steel plates to match, but again, too much of a pain. On a race bike, I might have done it anyway, just for the weight saving, but it seemed like overkill on a street bike. I do wonder about the problem of the heavier plates wearing more on the clutch center splines. That was one of the problems I had on the race bikes, and I had to replace the centers periodically. Guess we'll just wait and see on the street bike.

Ken
 
Like Bill said, RGM have moved the mean radius out, makinngthe plates ‘bigger’ effect. I’m wondering if one could achieve the same by removing some friction material off of Barnet plates?

Ken, you could easily pinch some holes in the unused portion of the bronze plates.

And, FWIW, RGM seek the narrow plates plates separately, if machining the old ones is too much of a PITA.
 
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