Sleeving Mastercylinder

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I have use the OEM MC, a sleeved MC, and the CNW Brembo MC.

IMO, the sleeved MC is a noticeable improvement but it certainly does not provide "modern" braking or feel. In addition, the sleeving can fail - I had to have my sleeved MC resleeved again at one point. The Brembo MC (with stock caliper) makes the bike feel like a current machine brake-wise, great feel and stopping power. Obviously, the Brembo doesn't look anything like the original parts but CNW makes a plate that allows the Brembo to attach to the stock switchgear if that's any help.

This added a few minutes later: Frankly, my experience with sleeving was rather unpleasant due to the failure of the first sleeve after a few years - the brakes went from "normal" to the lever moving all the way back to the bar with no effect from one brake application to the next. Despite that, I had it resleeved but constantly worried about another failure until I bought the CNW unit.
 
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I bought the RGM sleeve kit from MAP cycle here in the US. They also sell the replacement piston and seals under a different part number. I called to make the order and ask if I needed to buy both kits to get the whole thing. The answer was that the sleeve kit comes with everything. You will need a 16.5mm drill bit and an 18 x 1.5mm tap to do the job. They strongly recommend that you not do it at home. I used a small lathe with a 4x6 inch block of wood in place of the tool rest on the cross feed. I chucked a 5/8 rod in the chuck and put the master cylinder over it. Then I brought the wood block on the cross feed up to the mounting flat of the master cylinder and screwed it to the wood. After that it was a simple matter of backing off the master cylinder without moving the cross feed in or out. I chucked the drill bit ($12 on eBay) and drilled out the master cylinder. Then I chucked the 18mm tap ($15 on eBay) and turned the chuck by hand while advancing the master cylinder.

After that it is a mater of installing the new sleeve kit with Teflon tape and following the bleed instructions.

I have driven over 600 miles and I can say the brake works great. Stops the bike fast. It will lock the front wheel but not easily. It has good feel and really makes me a lot safer on the road.

There are better kits out there as far as stopping power but none of them look stock. I wouldn't really care about that if I had to go there to get good stopping power but I have good stopping power now so I prefer this option. I think that it depends too on your strength of grip. Like I said, I can lock the wheel so I have been retraining myself to use the correct force with this brake. I'm also using sintered metal brake pads and after my trip to Barber I can see brake dust on the caliper which I think is actually from the disk itself. I suppose I'll be replacing those now about every 50 to 100 thousand miles.
Dan.
 
If you want the original look, Andover Norton now makes a 13mm version of the standard master cylinder.
 
Why revive a 9 year old thread?
TheFrib wanted to know if Vintage brake offers a master cylinder sleeving service.
Why not just ask that, instead of forcing dozens, if not hundreds of people to read ancient irrelevant content from 2010.
Or am I missing something here?

Stephen Hill
 
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