simplified wiring, revisited yet again

Hello all,

sorry for the redundancy in the subject line, couldn't resist. In order to get my bike running, I have removed the factory wiring harness and rewired the bike with the simplified wiring setup on the brit cycle site (link below)

http://www.britcycle.com/Manuals/SimplifiedWiring.pdf

I have only wired the ignition circuit for now, mainly so I can kick the bike and check for power. My questions: Regarding the ignition switch wiring, I see there are 3 wires coming to a certain point at the switch, 1 from the rectifier, 1 from the battery, 1 from the brake light switch. Would I run these 3 wires to post 1 or 2 on the switch? There are also 2 more wires that come to a point at the switch in the diagram, 1 from the zener diode, 1 from the coils. Would I connect these at post 1 or 2 on the switch?

I am using a replacement norton switch with 5 posts on it. Once I get the switch wiring correct, I should be able to kick the bike and see spark going to each of the points, and if I remove a spark plug, I should also see it spark, correct? This would tell me I at least have spark, then needing only fuel etc to start the bike.

The diagram also shows condensors, any recommendations on what to use? Is there an easily obtainable type? (autozone?)

I appreciate any advice I can get on this. I'm looking forward to trying to start my bike.

DS

madcarpenter said:

I have only wired the ignition circuit for now, mainly so I can kick the bike and check for power. My questions: Regarding the ignition switch wiring, I see there are 3 wires coming to a certain point at the switch, 1 from the rectifier, 1 from the battery, 1 from the brake light switch. Would I run these 3 wires to post 1 or 2 on the switch?

Click to expand...

= Post 1, with the possible exception of the brake light switch circuit, which I personally wouldn't connect to post 1, as I don't see any need for the brake light circuit to be wired permanently live?

madcarpenter said:

There are also 2 more wires that come to a point at the switch in the diagram, 1 from the zener diode, 1 from the coils. Would I connect these at post 1 or 2 on the switch?

Click to expand...

= Post 2. (note that on late model British bikes [Triumphs/Nortons] it was common practice to place the Zener on the battery side of the main switch).

madcarpenter said:

I am using a replacement norton switch with 5 posts on it. Once I get the switch wiring correct, I should be able to kick the bike and see spark going to each of the points, and if I remove a spark plug, I should also see it spark, correct? This would tell me I at least have spark, then needing only fuel etc to start the bike.

Click to expand...

Yes, with the key turned to either the third "Ignition" position, or fourth key "Ignition and Lights" position. Just make sure you have a proper earth/ground wire connected between the engine and battery(+), as the Commando's Isolastic mountings make poor electrical conductors.

The Norton key switch also has a lighting control function = key pos. 4 (and parking lights = keay pos. 1) it can therefore be used for the lighting circuits, instead of running direct from the battery, as the Britcycle diagram shows a simple two position OFF/ON main switch with no lighting control, and a separate light switch.

I noticed there's no horn circuit drawn on the diagram?

If electronic ignition, DO NOT use condensers.

no worries, its all old school. I'll go to electronic stuff way down the road

Your condensers are on the coil cluster opposite the ballast resistor (white porcelain) The condensers are under the black boot. You should see the connector sticking out of the rubber.

Hey Rennie,

I only wish that assembly was still on the bike. The PO did some racing and did away with a lot of the original parts. I got a set that should work. I'm changing the fluids right now and may try to kick it over later.

I'll let the group know

The rubber "2CP" pack would have contained two standard Lucas 54420128 condensers, which should be available from any good British bike parts supplier, but any similar ignition condensers will probably do.

It's a while back but I think I used VW bug condensers.

Well,

I changed the oil, put the tank on, added a little fuel, and noticed a leak in the bottom of the LH amal. I'll deal with that later. Anyways, I gave it several kicks and nothing remotely sounded like starting. I rotated the switch through every position and kicked, nothing.

I checked all the wires for continuity, and there are no breaks. I pulled the contact cover off while my friend kicked and noticed only 1 set of points sparked. I pulled the plugs and watched, and only 1 sparked (RH side). So far, the only thing I've noticed is how long its been since I've kick started a bike, ha ha. Ow my knees.

Any suggestions?

DS

Point by point through the ignition system with your test light.

Fresh plugs are HUGE at this stage.

madcarpenter said:

Any suggestions?

Click to expand...

Presumably, you have set both the points gaps and ignition timing (to 28 deg BTDC fully advanced) accurately?

I noted from an earlier post that you said you'd fitted two 12V coils? Presumably you have not connected them to a ballast resistor, as the standard setup would have been two 6V coils with ballast resistor?

Both coils should be getting battery power from the same circuit wire, so if you are getting a spark on only one plug, then the fault ought to be somewhere between the coil and points/condenser on the bad side, or the HT lead (spark wire) plug cap or plug on the same side?

Heres the new parts rundown:

plugs (properly gapped)
plug wires
battery
12 volt coils (no ballast resistor)
condensors
switch
wires

Existing parts used:
rectifier (grounded to frame)
zener diode (grounded to frame)

I scavenged the wiring from a NOS harness I forgot I had bought when I first got the bike. I also have one of the new rectifiers, just haven't made a heat sink for it yet

I'll double check the gap and timing again, go back through the wiring.

DS

Are the point wires hooked up correctly on both sides? One washer in the wrong spot and they will ground that coil continuously. A test light and a roll over is all that it takes to find out.

Seems like it is also possible to ground continuously with a misaligned lead to the points. It should show up pretty easily.
Since this stuff is a trip down memory lane for me I'll also mention I mounted my condensers on the coil bracket for easy changing and testing. On the Ford coil bracket there was a place for a condenser already for radio interference, and that was easy.

Well,
I got the bike running using the simplified wiring diagram and a lot of help from the forum. I'm now starting to wire the headlight and I'm asking for help again. I have the factory headlight with the 2 position switch and 3 indicator lights.
Which would you suggest to use as a minimum? Hi/low beam, of course, but should I bother with the indicator lights? The 2 position switch? I have the factory handlebar switches and am thinking of wiring a kill switch from the right side switch assembly.
Any suggestions / wiring ideas will be greatly appreciated as always

Thanks,

DS