Sidestand spring

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worntorn

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Borrowed the sidestand spring from the MK3 to make up a lightweight sidestand for a project bike.
Yikes!
It's just ready to let go.
Wouldn't want to have that drop down when leaning into a corner.
It might be survivable or it might not!
26,000 miles, not that much really.

Glen

 
Had the same issue.
In a pinch you can snip off at the worn part and re-curve the remaining part with pliers.
Quite malleable spring wire.
 
That's good to know.
I ordered a new one but will recurve this one for tomorrow's ride.

Glen
 
Did mine a while back because it seemed to get a little lazy with age.
 
Funnily enough i fitted my prop yesterday, liberally applied a heavy weight grease around the spring & hole
 
I've had a few springs go like that but the worst one was a stainless one that went completely
Luckily a BMW rider started flashing me,and I pulled over to find my side stand was all the way out
He gave me a bungee cord to tie it up
I have always been grateful to the bloke
Since then I have fitted a Kawasaki zzr 1100 side stand with double spring
 
Check the edges of the hole for sharpness / burrs - easing these will promote longevity.
 
I've had a few springs go like that but the worst one was a stainless one that went completely
Luckily a BMW rider started flashing me,and I pulled over to find my side stand was all the way out
He gave me a bungee cord to tie it up
I have always been grateful to the bloke
Since then I have fitted a Kawasaki zzr 1100 side stand with double spring

Okay Baz we need to see a picture please
 
I should have said I welded the Kawasaki bracket to the frame much further back than the original
I wanted it easier to reach,I doubt many people would want to do that
I'll put a photo up when I get a chance, cheers
 
I should have said I welded the Kawasaki bracket to the frame much further back than the original
I wanted it easier to reach,I doubt many people would want to do that
I'll put a photo up when I get a chance, cheers

speaking of easier to reach. I used an old iso-muffler mount attached to the frame where the sidestand bumper meets the frame. kicks it out enough that it's easy to catch with your foot while sitting on the bike. doesn't seem to cause any interference problems.



Sidestand spring


Sidestand spring
 
in my mind one of the Norton poor design decision is that the they used a hardened bushing and soft cast side stand, so all the wear is on the expensive sidestand and not the bushing... so now i have to find a way to take the slope out of the sidestand or replace it, and a kawasaki zzr1100 sounds a might bit tempting from a cost perspective...
 
in my mind one of the Norton poor design decision is that the they used a hardened bushing and soft cast side stand, so all the wear is on the expensive sidestand and not the bushing... so now i have to find a way to take the slope out of the sidestand or replace it, and a kawasaki zzr1100 sounds a might bit tempting from a cost perspective...
Comoz I believe had a cure for side stand pivot wear
He fitted a clip to stop the sidestand from bouncing up and and down whilst the bike was being ridden and stopped the pivot from wearing out
 
in my mind one of the Norton poor design decision is that the they used a hardened bushing and soft cast side stand, so all the wear is on the expensive sidestand and not the bushing... so now i have to find a way to take the slope out of the sidestand or replace it, and a kawasaki zzr1100 sounds a might bit tempting from a cost perspective...

I agree, poor design, but that's my "hindsight20/20" view. my thought and daily brain fart -- the hardened bushing (if it is truly hardened) should be a press fit into the sidestand, thus forcing the pivot or rotation around the bolt, and not the sidestand. i'm thinking the 7/16" bolt is supposed to lock the bushing, but it doesn't do a very good job of it. by locking the bushing in place, you would have a hardened bushing rotating around a hardened bolt. with a light lubricant, there should be minimal wear over time on those parts. McMaster-Carr has "drill bushings" with the same dimensional specs as the factory part, and drill bushings are some seriously hard things. the trick is to lock it in place in the sidestand. in the past, I have used JB Weld to lock bushings in place with good results, so that may be a solution. just food for thought....
 
I agree, poor design, but that's my "hindsight20/20" view. my thought and daily brain fart -- the hardened bushing (if it is truly hardened) should be a press fit into the sidestand, thus forcing the pivot or rotation around the bolt, and not the sidestand. i'm thinking the 7/16" bolt is supposed to lock the bushing, but it doesn't do a very good job of it. by locking the bushing in place, you would have a hardened bushing rotating around a hardened bolt. with a light lubricant, there should be minimal wear over time on those parts. McMaster-Carr has "drill bushings" with the same dimensional specs as the factory part, and drill bushings are some seriously hard things. the trick is to lock it in place in the sidestand. in the past, I have used JB Weld to lock bushings in place with good results, so that may be a solution. just food for thought....

Thanks Joe, I will consider the suggestion and run it past my materials expert.
 
just a heads up - ordered up a couple drill bushings, a couple hardened allen head cap screws, hardened washers, and new locknuts. i'll try to JB-Weld the bushing in my old, slightly worn, sidestand and see what I can come up with for a fix. will post any positive results. ;)
 
Well sometimes we just gotta go with our gut, the sloppy fit of the bushing was not enough to warrant major surgery, so i used a a strip of fine mig welding wire and press fit the bushing. don't think it will come loose now, and really thats all it needed, a tight fit. hope your JB-weld works out
 
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