setting suspension sag

If you have got 4 inch of suspension travel on the front, you probably need about one inch of sag when you sit on the bike. When you accelerate out of corners, the rear of the bike squats and the front rises - the change in the trail determines how the bike handles - tendency to oversteer or understeer, if you gas it when cranked over coming out of corners. The spring rate and damping need to be able to cope with the bumps in the road without losing control of the front wheel or bottoming out, but are otherwise probably incidental.

Fast Eddie said:

Steve, if you do change the shocks, and especially as you ride on the track, you might want to consider 10mm longer ones. That’s what I recently fitted under advice from Maxton. It feels good, but I haven’t had it on the track again yet.

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You realize that when the rake on the steering head changes under braking and acceleration, the handling of the bike changes ? If the steering is neutral, the bike becomes more stable as you brake and less stable as you accelerate. Fitting longer rear shocks changes the effect of the squat as you accelerate out of corners. Lifting the rear end might make you tend to run wide, because the steering becomes more stable as the rake steepens. However longer shocks with softer springs and more damping might work better, because you might get more feel . If I was getting wobble on a normal Commando, I would suspect the isolastics. I don't think my Seeley has any static sag. With a modern bike, you usually have 100 horsepower and very long suspension travel. It is a different game.