seriously infected…!

Not open for further replies.
Matt, sorry about your thread getting hijacked! See what happens when you ask an innocent question? :) It's been a very interesting discussion though.

Now back to rotors. The guy who did the machine work on mine suggested having it electroless nickel plated. Prevents the rust and looks nice. But would that affect the braking? Ron, on your SP are those rotors bare iron or plated?

The SP's rotors are bare iron, as are the one's on my 900SS beveldrive. They get a little rusty when I wash it, but a quick wipe or a short run and they clean up. I have the rotors on the Nortons turned to remove the plating. It improved the grip, but is messy when they get wet. I would think the Nickel plate would have a negative effect on the friction, what's your professional opinion, Derek?

The coefficient of static friction (mu) for cast iron is .4. I don't know what mu is for electroless nickle but perhaps another forum member does. If mu for nickle is, say, .3 then a nickle plated disc would not stop as quick as cast iron, given the same braking force. I doubt that you could tell the stopping difference between the two (plated or non plated) by the seat of your pants, however.

Now, my experience with electroless nickle has not been good. When it gets nicked, a corrosion cell sets up between the plating and the base metal. Then the plating starts to lift away to reveal a rusty surface beneath. It gets real ugly real quick.

As such, I don't recommend electroless nickle plating on disc brake rotors.



Debby & All,
My front rotor is e-nickel plated. The main reason for this was to prevent the cross-drilled holes from bleeding rust when the rotor gets wet. I have suffered no ill braking effects while the plating was in place (it has worn off in the area under the pads now). I know of at least 6 other bikes running stock calipers with e-nickeled rotors with no problems.

Plating lifting off has not been a problem.

At work, we actually e-nickel some of our driveline components on amphibious vehicles for salt water corrosion resistance. One thing to mention, not all e-nickel's are created equal, and it is only as good as it's metal prep prior to plating.

Hey Matt,

This Master Cylinder/Brake question I asked about some months back now. CNW parts was the topic. I am surprised no one has mentioned it here. Take a look if you care to.

I have had the Brembo master cylinder fitted for some time now & it works a treat. Another forum member "Debby" has also decided to copy the idea I see.

If you check out this page, you will see the Brembo caliper setup I have since mounted on my "920" commando.

Regards from
I have an 850 motor sitting around that I bought to do a big bore with. I see that you have a 920 and would like to know more about it. I was debating on 880 or 920. the 920 bothers me a little and would like any info on reliability.

I have not completed building the "920" so I cannot tell you about reliability yet, sorry. I am copying "build 36" that Matt Rambow of CNW has built, I love that maroon commando.

RGM Motors England has the complete 920 setup for 159 pounds & use the existing gudgeon pins. That is what I am using.

With the brass cage "superblends" in the bottom end, a bit of blueprinting and not flogging the guts out of the engine, I don't see any more problems than you normally have owning N :D rt :D ns !!

The last week I have been trying to source an electrical fault.......
As a last straw, took it to the local bike sparky, unfortunately, he was not able to solve the problem also in 1.5 hours of trying.

I actually went and looked at new Harleys & the "Star" Yamahas, I looked & looked....but I am afraid I am "seriously infected" by the Commando also, so I will have patience once more & fix the problem.

Hi folks!
According to that front brake discussion:
A braided stainless steel hose and the RGM sleeved master cylinder should solve all your problems. At a very reasonable price ( $ 100 roundabout).
Or if you want ultimate power braking, go for the CNW or Norvil system.
Sets you back ca. $ 1000,00. Gosh. Do we need that? Well, it’s just fun and enthusiasm that keeps us going, isn’t it?

Thanks for changing the topic though… it’s getting mixed up again (AND I LOVE IT).
Back to some more questions: Is it worth fitting a primay belt drive? The conversion si not that deer and you keep the primary drive leak-free. That ain’t bad, isn’t it?

It’s your turn now!
Now this is getting interesting. I have asked many people with belt primaries why they did it and if they would do it again. I have been surprised at the answers. Save weight, reduce vibration, stop oil leaks, smoother running, etc. I can see for a race bike you can definitely save some weight. But for a street bike, the cost seems a bit high for the so-called advantage.
Who on the list have done this and what are your findings?
Stopping Primary Leaks

As far as stopping primary leaks, I have been using Permatex #2 Non-hardening gasket eliminator, as a supplement to the stock seal. So far it's 6 for 6, including a couple of primarys that would not stop leaking for love nor money. Just clean all gasket sufaces, install a new seal rubber, apply a THIN layer of sealant to both surfaces, let it tack up, and install the cover. The bit that squeezes out will have to be cleaned up with brake cleaner, as the sealant sticks to the aluminum like sh!!t to a wool blanket. That is why the the application should be kept thin!


the biggest thing that worry's me is the head gasket and heat. I live in cent. fla and 95+ days are not uncommen. the bottem end should not be a problem if you dont buzz the snot out of it all the time plus i want torque in the midrange not high rpm horsepower. did rgm give you approx. compression with there kit?

Not open for further replies.