Rust Proof Spindle?

So from the other thread we've looked at how to secure the spindle. There are numerous stories of beating the spindles out. Since we don't want the spindle to move but also not rust how do you protect the spindle (aside from using a SS spindle)?

Coat it with something like this:


Just a rust preventive paint?

I would just be sure to keep it well oiled and be sure you have nice new seals fitted, Also don't pressure wash the bike as I have seen some people do. And maybe don't ride through big puddles, LOL LOL. :mrgreen:

I have been thinking about using something like this:

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1145 ... GUN_FINISH

I have also been planning to stop by the local gun shop and talk to them about what kind of finishes they are providing these days and what kind of cost are involved.

Hortons Norton said:

I would just be sure to keep it well oiled and be sure you have nice new seals fitted, Also don't pressure wash the bike as I have seen some people do. And maybe don't ride through big puddles, LOL LOL. :mrgreen:

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So, ironically in theory spindle should be dry except where the swingarm bushing are. If you trust the Oilite you may not need to add more oil.

And I trust that the Norton factory people also knew the oil lite bushings would soon enough go dry,
and so they said to add a heavy oil somewhat regularly, just in case of course!

highdesert said:

And I trust that the Norton factory people also knew the oil lite bushings would soon enough go dry,
and so they said to add a heavy oil somewhat regularly, just in case of course!

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How do you explain the MkIII configuration of the swingarm lubrication then?

Huh? The thing lives in a tube full of gear lube and we're worrying about rust?

BrianK said:

Huh? The thing lives in a tube full of gear lube and we're worrying about rust?

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My point is that the spindle should not move so why should it be covered in a lubricant? Seems counter-intuitive...

Only worry about rust when the gear oil all runs out... swooshD try using "Quad Ring O-rings" instead of the regular O-rings and make sure that you test fit your swingarm with feeler gauges between the fit up of sintered bronze bushes and the rear engine mount. do this without the O-rings in and try for about 0.005" gap. Put shims between Dust cover outboard side until you get that Gap.
this gives your O-rings a little more sealing tension against the assembly when it is fitted up and driving down the open road. :wink:
my 2 cents,
Regards,
CNN

Isn't the point to keep down the friction with the bushings, which do move? Sheesh, I obsessed about getting the fit right when I replaced the bushings. But that's another thread in a galaxy far, far away....!

The cradle is steel, so it will rust without lube. The spindle can be replaced with SS. I made the SS move because my spindle and cradle had rusted and had also oblonged the cradle hole, so I had to have the cradle reamed, a new oversize spindle (SS) and reamed bushings and extra bolts in the cradle and spindle so it will not move. I plan on keeping everything lubed so rust will not form in the cradle again. But then I have the old style, not the new "never lube" ones. Just my 2 cents.

Dave
69S

CanukNortonNut said:

Only worry about rust when the gear oil all runs out... swooshD try using "Quad Ring O-rings" instead of the regular O-rings and make sure that you test fit your swingarm with feeler gauges between the fit up of sintered bronze bushes and the rear engine mount. do this without the O-rings in and try for about 0.005" gap. Put shims between Dust cover outboard side until you get that Gap.
this gives your O-rings a little more sealing tension against the assembly when it is fitted up and driving down the open road. :wink:
my 2 cents,
Regards,
CNN

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I don't see shims listed in the Parts Book. Are they specific to the swingarm or just generic?

No shims on mine....

Dave
The shim spacer I get from McMaster Carr
its not a Norton Part so its a Mod.
Regards,
CNN

I pulled my spindle over the weekend. Yeah, it was an adventure in moving. Amazingly there was very little corrosion despite the fact that there was nothing in there and the O-rings were so hard they felt like bakelite.

It is probably over-kill but I am wondering about plating it with something to make the process a little smoother...if you know what I mean.

Maybe something like this:

http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/bnen.html

The question I have about this is I have to wonder if adding a couple thousandths of an inch is going to require machining the bushings and tube. Anybody have any idea what the tolerance is on this fit now? Thoughts on it? I am not a big fan of using stainless steel to swap everything out, but the idea of plating some of this stuff (like iso bolts) appeals to me.

Russ

I'm in the midst of doing the swingarm spindle too. On the idea of plating to oversize the spindle, its possible but there are different grades of plating and thickness. Just any old plating won't do. Theres no assurity of thickness or unoformity unless you go for precision hard chrome and a ground finish. That's not cheap, so may as well go for a 0.005" O/S spindle and line ream the swingarm and cradle. The popular opinion is that the swing arm bushes don't wear much. Its the cradle tube that gets out of round, so plating the spindle doesn't help there either. Tp prevent further cradle tube wear, do the double lock bolt mod or fit the Heinz Kegler clamps.

Mick

I agree with Mick, plating is not the answer. .005 oversize spindles are available, even in SS. That is what I did, had the cradle reamed .005 over, got a new SS spindle and at the same time had the bushings reamed by the same guy. Nithburg in CA did it for me, don't know if they are still doing it, but worth a try. I sent the whole assembly to them and got it all back within several weeks. Nice work too. The spindle had larger holes and they put 2 more bolts in it on the sides to hold it tighter in the cradle.

Dave
69S

The rear iso shims work pretty well but they are a little tight on the OD of the bushing. Dave you might want to take the paint off till after you install the swingarm. It's not as thick as the powdercoat but it is going to wear off pretty quickly under the bushing shoulder and the o-ring and that slack could be the beginning of something bad. I tried packing the o-ring in grease and it worked great to prevent any leaks, till he first time I rode it. :?

I am not sure where this thread has gone. The original question (I think) was in reference to protecting the spindle from rust and/or corrosion. The idea of plating was not to increase the diameter but to provide that protection. The increase in diameter would be a result, not the intent (As it turns out the increase in diameter would be in 4 to 8 ten-thousandths of an inch, which probably is inside the original specifications anyway). It seems to me that the idea of using 140 weight oil was probably more to do with what was available 40 years ago that would protect, lube and allow you to get it back apart again. There have been so many advances in lubrication in the last 40 years that this topic seems certainly as valid as wondering what kinds of oil to run in an engine or a transmission.

The plating that was referenced above is to provide protection and a friction free surface. It seems to me that both of these things would be a benefit in many areas, not just a spindle. From the Caswell site:

"BN EN is an extremely slick, abrasion resistant, low-friction, high lubricity coating.

Ideal for all types of guns, engine pistons, fry pans, in fact anywhere where dry lubrication and non-stick is an issue. We see interesting potential in lining parts of Paintball Guns to prevent wear of the soft aluminum"

I've got no real reason to beat a dead horse, but I have to admit I find it interesting that with all the esoteric conversations about what kind of washer materials are best to use on isolastics, etc that there is not more interest in the idea of using modern plating techniques on these bikes. I have actually gotten to the point of wondering about plating the entire cradle and front iso mount with something like this.

Admittedly, my bike has not been apart for 20 years, it probably wont be that long until it gets taken apart again and if it is I probalby wont be the guy doing it. So maybe the easiest answer is just to take it apart more often and clean out the tubes. But it has proven worth the effort over the years if I approach every project like I am the guy who is gonna have to fix it. 'Cause usually I am, so making the maintenance as painless as possible certainly has merit.

Russ

rvich said:

I am not a big fan of using stainless steel to swap everything out, but the idea of plating some of this stuff (like iso bolts) appeals to me.

Russ

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Heritic! Ban him!!! :mrgreen: