Rubber Oil Tank Mounts

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Is it me or are the rubber oil tanks mounts really fragile? Put new ones on, the rear twisted off when I tightened up the banjo bolt. I epoxyed it back together, the front one twisted off when I tightened the drain plug. Replaced that one with a bolt, piece of 3/8 oil hose and couple of big washers. Ugh, no wonder it was hard mounted by the PO. I can't see the rubber mounts staying bolted on.
 
It's you. Try the muffler support rubbers instead. They work a treat on the gastank too. The real issue is the lower oil tank bottom mounting rubber. It gets cooked hard as a rock then fractures the brazed-in insert. Fit a new bigger crush-rubber every time disturbed .
 
Ugh yes and big reason is the bottom of tank support. Basic solutions all involve removing the bottom bolt so tank rests on a tough but compliant cushion that don't crush down over time then diddle the top tangs so at least one of em can fit a Lords stud mount in a workable tension. Cut out for the bolt boss so wide area supported. I gave up on two Lords mounts on my two Combats and ended up with a bolt and rubber washers or tube spacer to cushion some compliance on fixing rear tang, so it didn't fracture off as happens too commonly. Oh yeah my tanks all tended to press-bang on the frame rail so I wedged a split fuel hose over part of the tank ridge and so far stayed put even on mild crashes. There are upgrade kits from Old Brits for ideas to do or spend on. If ya could actually solid attach tank that would be best but the wimpy tangs aren't going to work that way long.
 
The last set of 6 Lords mounts I ordered from a Brit Iron only vendor are exactly like the Harley ones I've ordered prior and used up on Peel, so Trixie's are now getting upgraded as they fail in series. The rubbers can be too robust for oil tank tangs to take though so they ain't the real issue or complete solution. I"m not happy with oil tank mount till I can thump it hard to hurt my hand but don't hear a thing but the smack of flesh on steel and rattle of oil cap from the shock.
 
It's you. First, be sure the brackets are properly aligned so when your all done, the rubber isolation mount is in a neutral state. You should tighten one end COMPLETELY, there is no good way to counterhold without tearing, just rely on the stud biting into the bracket. THEN snug up the second end gently, taking care to not twist the rubber. The mounts are small because the tank is small, light. UPSIZING to bigger mounts is not the answer, it blunts the design of isolation mounts.
 
Niagara850 said:
Replaced that one with a bolt, piece of 3/8 oil hose and couple of big washers.

This has been my solution for years and I use it on both front and rear mounting points.

It's kinda like buying tires, particularly ones on sale. You better check the manufacturing date on the tire code. Rubber is a funny thing. You never now how fresh these NOS things can be.

Then again, someone will bitch for not being pure. I swear to God, they're out there.
 
pvisseriii said:
Then again, someone will bitch for not being pure. I swear to God, they're out there.

Pviss - There's pure. There's making it work. Then there's hacking out a huge ragged square hole in your frame. :P

But do what you want. You enjoy it.
 
I got them on ok, gently tightening, but when I tightened up the drain plug ...

[ATTACH=full]87835[/ATTACH] [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/52577093@N03/7559457740/]IMG_6094 by niagaraz, on Flickr[/url]

The rear broke when I tightened the bango bolt, I epoxyed it back together and put an socket extension between the filler and frame when I tightened it again. Also added lock washers, as it ratttled apart in 30 secs after I fired her up. The bottom tank mount has been repaired previously, kinda looks like an upside down mushroom thats been tapped. The bottom grommet was hard and partiaIly broken. I fashioned one up with rubber ring I found in the plumbing aisle at the loacal Home Hardware. Home Depot or Lowes never have little bits like this. It fit perfect, the mushroom sits on top of it. We'll see how it holds up
 
If you put a wrench on hex part of the rubber mount when you snug it up it wont twist and rip the rubber, Also some locktite on it helps too. You could also use nylock nuts too with the locktite. I know some think locktite is a bodge but I have faith in it. And what concours says is also very important and a must.
 
Niagara850 said:
Is it me or are the rubber oil tanks mounts really fragile? .

Its not you - bought some a few years ago - and they fell apart just sitting on the shelf !!!
Don't think I've ever seen anything fail like that without ever even being touched.

Wouldn't swear they were in the green globe bags though, they were in a little white paper bag...
 
I never really understood what was the point of securing the bottom of the oil tank with the bolt thing.

I took my bottom mount off 20 years ago, no issues with the positive being additional weight saved, faster bike.
 
Niagara850 said:
I got them on ok, gently tightening, but when I tightened up the drain plug ...

[ATTACH=full]87836[/ATTACH] [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/52577093@N03/7559457740/]IMG_6094 by niagaraz, on Flickr[/url]

The rear broke when I tightened the bango bolt, I epoxyed it back together and put an socket extension between the filler and frame when I tightened it again. Also added lock washers, as it ratttled apart in 30 secs after I fired her up. The bottom tank mount has been repaired previously, kinda looks like an upside down mushroom thats been tapped. The bottom grommet was hard and partiaIly broken. I fashioned one up with rubber ring I found in the plumbing aisle at the loacal Home Hardware. Home Depot or Lowes never have little bits like this. It fit perfect, the mushroom sits on top of it. We'll see how it holds up


I use a long pair of needle nose pliers to hang onto the steel hex between the rubber to stop it from spinning while I tighten up the last few turns on a nyloc nut. This way it doesn't turn on you and twist the rubber bit off. FYI
It's a learning curve.
Cheers
CNN
 
I have had success with standard mounts and removing the bottom mount and replacing it with a strip of very dense foam rubber like Hobot talks about. So far so good, anyway.
Mark
 
Whitworth Ranch said:
I have had success with standard mounts and removing the bottom mount and replacing it with a strip of very dense foam rubber like Hobot talks about. So far so good, anyway.
Mark

I removed the bottom mount also. Cleaned up the side of the tank and back of the battery box real good and attached a big piece of velcro to each part. It holds really well and has some 'give'. I may have stolen that idea from Swooshdave.
 
The issue with velcro can be adhesive softening gooey with heat and oil spill or hardening up to part after a time. On Trixie I found a rather thick o-ring about 2" OD so didn't have to cut a hole for the bottom boss.
 
Funny, Im installing the oil tank just. Had it rennovated by CNW. Was surprised
to find the bottom mounting boss MIA! The included rubber mounts are slightly
larger than the stock hex type and had to toss one as the distance between tank mount
ears is too long. So used one old type one new one. Looks like a soft rubber pad
goes between the battery tray and the tank. Will heed hobot warning about heat from
tank softening glue.
 
batrider said:
pvisseriii said:
Then again, someone will bitch for not being pure. I swear to God, they're out there.

Pviss - There's pure. There's making it work. Then there's hacking out a huge ragged square hole in your frame. :P

But do what you want. You enjoy it.
Ouch man, ouch! :cry:
 
bwolfie said:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260757146752#ht_500wt_922

Harley oil tank and battery box mounts, same length, larger diameter, more robust. Do a search on here and there should be some more input on them. And they are cheap to boot.

Those are what i used on my oil tank... It is a little tighter of a fit but worked just fine and was able to get them in town instead of ordering them online.
 
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