Oil tank line - wot's the trick?

robs ss

robs ss

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I have my oil tank off (again) because of a persistent weep down from where the hose fits onto the oil feed banjo.
Even 2 hose clamps won't give sufficient clamping - ie: both clamps "tight" but can rotate/slide the hose without too much effort.
It is new hose, that clamps fine on other connections.
One thng i have noted is that the banjo oil pipe is 9.6mm, whereas all the others are about 10.0mm.
I'm thinking about using loctite 577 (sealing)

Anyone care to offer their sage (and kind) advice?
Cheers
 
robs ss said:
I have my oil tank off (again) because of a persistent weep down from where the hose fits onto the oil feed banjo.
Even 2 hose clamps won't give sufficient clamping - ie: both clamps "tight" but can rotate/slide the hose without too much effort.
It is new hose, that clamps fine on other connections.
One thng i have noted is that the banjo oil pipe is 9.6mm, whereas all the others are about 10.0mm.
I'm thinking about using loctite 577 (sealing)

Anyone care to offer their sage (and kind) advice?
Cheers
Click to expand...
What is the oil line? (Brand/model) pics?

What type of clamps?

Council against using any sealer.

No advice on feelings.😇
 
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robs ss said:
I have my oil tank off (again) because of a persistent weep down from where the hose fits onto the oil feed banjo.
Even 2 hose clamps won't give sufficient clamping - ie: both clamps "tight" but can rotate/slide the hose without too much effort.
It is new hose, that clamps fine on other connections.
One thng i have noted is that the banjo oil pipe is 9.6mm, whereas all the others are about 10.0mm.
I'm thinking about using loctite 577 (sealing)

Anyone care to offer their sage (and kind) advice?
Cheers
Click to expand...
Are you sure its not coming out from around the Aluminium washer of the banjo itself ...I use two clamps as well on those steel tubes for that same reason
 

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concours said:
The serrated gear type hose clamps can fail to apply EVEN clamping at those relatively small diameters.

These have worked better for me.


View attachment 106362
Click to expand...
I'm currently going over to these too - they're 'correct' for the '69 TR6C I'm restoring ATM, and I'll be using them on everything else in future.
In the UK stainless ones are available here:

Mini Clips Hose Clamps - D. Middleton & Son

www.stainlessmiddleton.co.uk www.stainlessmiddleton.co.uk

Since you're already using them I guess the problem could be elsewhere....
Is it possible the inner bore of the hose has split or turned back on itself?
 
dobba99 said:
Never liked the plain pipe either on the oil tank or filter housing so i made a tool to put the bulge around the end

Before and after
Click to expand...

That looks the goods!
Cant quite see how the tool works.
Could you please explain a little more?
Cheers
 
The tool works by the screw forcing a tiny steel ball against the inside of the tube. Its an enlargement of an earlier similar tool i made to do the same job on 1/4" OD copper tube for a Yarrow type model steam boiler
 
dobba99 said:
The tool works by the screw forcing a tiny steel ball against the inside of the tube. Its an enlargement of an earlier similar tool i made to do the same job on 1/4" OD copper tube for a Yarrow type model steam boiler
Click to expand...
Sorry - still struggling.
Do you have any sketches of the internals - I'm sure that's where the secret is.
Cheers
 
Hi Rob this is a crox swaging tool ..and works the same as dobba99's...
 

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KiwiShane said:
Hi Rob this is a crox swaging tool ..and works the same as dobba99's...
Click to expand...
The action is similar but it looks like they (crox) are not available in the size required. I didn't know that the Crox existed. Nice to know that they are available. The three ball action of the crox balances out the forces required the swage the tube. When you get down to small tube (1/4") you have to use a single ball, there is just not enough space for the three ball action.
 
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