Rubber cushion drive slop

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BERT

BERT

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With the l.s. nut tight and the axle tight, the paddles are sloppy in the drum sprocket and the drum sprocket is wiggly. How is this free play adjusted? Thanks in advance.
 
BERT said:
With the l.s. nut tight and the axle tight, the paddles are sloppy in the drum sprocket and the drum sprocket is wiggly. How is this free play adjusted? Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
If by "wobbly" you mean that the drum had lateral play, you might want to check the circlip that holds the drum bearing. These can be a problem if the groove for the circlip has been compromised.
 
BERT said:
the paddles are sloppy in the drum sprocket
Click to expand...

So the paddles are actually loose in the drum sprocket?

Dan1950 said:
If by "wobbly" you mean that the drum had lateral play, you might want to check the circlip that holds the drum bearing. These can be a problem if the groove for the circlip has been compromised.
Click to expand...

Or, the double-row drum sprocket bearing is worn out?
 
The cush drive rubbers can also wear or even melt if the brake drum overheats. We've heard owners reporting this and turned out the brake cable was incorrectly routed or poorly adjusted so that the brakes were applied when swing arm pivoted up under loading.
 
L.A.B. said:
So the paddles are actually loose in the drum sprocket?



Or, the double-row drum sprocket bearing is worn out?
Click to expand...
No, bad description on my part . Sorry. The drum sprocket paddles are tight riveted in the drum. There is slack between the paddles and the hub, and the sprocket drum is wiggly.
 
Tornado said:
The cush drive rubbers can also wear or even melt if the brake drum overheats. We've heard owners reporting this and turned out the brake cable was incorrectly routed or poorly adjusted so that the brakes were applied when swing arm pivoted up under loading.
Click to expand...
There is no indication of carbonization. The brake cable is routed correctly and the brake works fine. The drum sprocket is wiggly and there is slop between the paddles and the hub. The axle nut is tight as is the axle.
 
Still incompletely described.
Is the "wiggly" you mention ROTATIONAL play? RELATIVE to the wheel hub?
Or does the drum orbit about randomly?
 
BERT said:
There is no indication of carbonization. The brake cable is routed correctly and the brake works fine. The drum sprocket is wiggly and there is slop between the paddles and the hub. The axle nut is tight as is the axle.
Click to expand...
I didn't state the rubbers burn, just soften and deform as they melt. When did you last replace them? I've had new in there about 4 seasons ago and recently inspected them a few weeks back...still looking to be in good shape.
 
Sounds like the double row bearing in the drum is worn. A wee bit of slop in the cushioning does help get the rear wheel on easier. Replace the bearing and the cush rubbers. I usually grind of the 2 ribs on the cush rubber to assist getting the wheel on and off easier. You will find out though if you just put the rubbers in as they come.
 
I put in new AN rubbers and they make it impossible to remove the wheel out on the road. In the shop you can
pry it off. I thought after some miles they would sack out but no, they seem much longer lasting that original.
Ease them a bit and make sure the paddles have no burrs.
 
Onder said:
I put in new AN rubbers and they make it impossible to remove the wheel out on the road. In the shop you can
pry it off. I thought after some miles they would sack out but no, they seem much longer lasting that original.
Ease them a bit and make sure the paddles have no burrs.
Click to expand...
A little silicone grease on the paddles helps.
 
If there is no slop between the paddles and the cush drive blocks are snug when you assemble them, and if each of the axles are tightened, sounds like the bearing is faulty.
 
concours said:
Still incompletely described.
Is the "wiggly" you mention ROTATIONAL play? RELATIVE to the wheel hub?
Or does the drum orbit about randomly?
Click to expand...
Yes, it is loose relative to the rest of the whole assembly.
 
Good points from all. I will pull the wheel off and have a closer look. Thanks.
 
I have the wheel and sprocket drum off. The cush rubbers are squished from the paddles so they will be replaced. They lasted 800 miles. I remember the wheel assembled on the paddles without any difficulty at all. 2600 miles ago, I eliminated all of the felt seals and washers(32,33,30 and 45,46 referring to the parts catalogue) when I changed over to a new sealed double row bearing in the drum sprocket. The bearing seems good and is seated against the circlip which is in its groove.
The dummy axle has .060 play on the bench as shown.
Does the drum sprocket assembly require the washers and seals mentioned above for spacing?
Will new cush rubbers snug up the drum sprocket or should I be looking further?
Rubber cushion drive slop
 
The dummy axle will be loose in the drum when disassembled like you have it shown above. It is sounding to me like new cush rubbers will correct the majority of your issue. If your rubbers did not last very long, it sounds like your rear brake could be dragging. Just a guess...
 
BERT said:
I have the wheel and sprocket drum off. The cush rubbers are squished from the paddles so they will be replaced. They lasted 800 miles. I remember the wheel assembled on the paddles without any difficulty at all. 2600 miles ago, I eliminated all of the felt seals and washers(32,33,30 and 45,46 referring to the parts catalogue) when I changed over to a new sealed double row bearing in the drum sprocket. The bearing seems good and is seated against the circlip which is in its groove.
The dummy axle has .060 play on the bench as shown.
Does the drum sprocket assembly require the washers and seals mentioned above for spacing?
Will new cush rubbers snug up the drum sprocket or should I be looking further?View attachment 95836
Click to expand...
With the bearing seated in the drum and the circlip installed you can turn the drum over and bump the end of the dummy axle with a plastic mallet and/or put pressure on the dummy axle to see if the circlip holds. Mine would not. I ended up taking it to a local machine shop, having the groove cut slightly deeper and a slightly larger circlip employed to keep the double roll bearing seated where it needed to be.

While researching this problem, I found that it can be a somewhat common occurrence.
 
Dan1950 said:
With the bearing seated in the drum and the circlip installed you can turn the drum over and bump the end of the dummy axle with a plastic mallet and/or put pressure on the dummy axle to see if the circlip holds. Mine would not. I ended up taking it to a local machine shop, having the groove cut slightly deeper and a slightly larger circlip employed to keep the double roll bearing seated where it needed to be.

While researching this problem, I found that it can be a somewhat common occurrence.
Click to expand...
The circlip and bearing are seated and have not moved. Did you install the replacement sealed bearing and if so did you eliminate the felt washers?
 
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