RN9YC

Yup. Should be ok. When I had the Boyer I was running 2 Ford 6v coils and straight through plug wires with N7Ys. Worked great... looked awful.

The"P" is key in BP"?"es. P stand for projected tip.
Possible the Champion RN is the same as NGK BP. Worth checking.

What carb are you running?

Hi Thomas,

I'm not sure to be honest. The boyer box is all tucked away and not easy to get a useful photo of, but here is a picture of the stator if that would might help determine which one it is:

Thanks Batrider, pete.v and triumph2. It's a single Mikuni carb.

Supercat said:

Hi Thomas,

I'm not sure to be honest. The boyer box is all tucked away and not easy to get a useful photo of, but here is a picture of the stator if that would might help determine which one it is:

Click to expand...

Hard to tell until you look at the Transistor Box. The label on the box will tell you what model but colour will also tell. Is it black? If you take a squint under the tank just above the coils you should see it. The instructions (usual location) would be between the main tube and lower smaller frame tube. I have seen them mounted elsewhere.
One thing I noticed with the stator plate is that it is 180 degrees out as per Boyer instructions. But if it aint broke...don't fix it. One thing that I would do is get some foam pad to keep the wires from vibrating by pressing on the wires from the ignition cover. Thick enough that the cap pushes against the wires.
http://www.boyerbransden.com/pdf/KIT00053.pdf
Cheers,
Thomas

Thanks Thomas. I mounted it underneath the plate that the coils are attached to. I've got it ziptied in there really nicely now with foam backing so I'm reluctant to move it. I could probably get a decent photo of one side of it though, but I think the more informative side is up against the foam now. But it is definitely black.

Yeah, I noticed that it looked like the stator plate was 180 degrees out also - is that ok to have it like that and to strobe time it with this setup? I was assuming it would be because it seemed to run pretty good last year when I was getting her going.

Great tip on the foam pad under the timing cover. I hadn't thought about that and it sounds like it should work well.

Those instructions have wiring going to the condenser... I thought I was supposed to remove that and the ballast resistor?

If it is the black transistor box it is probably the Mk3 or Mk4 analogue boyer. If you installed it then follow the instructions that boyer had in the kit. You did strobe time it as per instructions? High tension leads should be copper core and plugs should be N7YC or NGK equivalent.
Regards,
Thomas

Cool. The boyer was on the bike when I got it, but I did replace the main wiring harness, and in the process I removed the ballast and the condenser. I was following the MKIII instructions for the boyer when doing this I believe, so hopefully they apply in both MKIII and MKIV cases! I didn't mess with the wiring going from the boyer box to the coils, or from the box to the timing side of the bike. I did take the coils off to clean them up, but I was careful to re-connect things as they were. I checked to make sure that I'm getting spark (I am), but I haven't tried to start the bike yet this year because I'm waiting on exhaust rubbers, new ht leads and a new kickstart lever. I'm also still waiting for the strobe light to arrive, so I've only checked the timing statically so far, and that looks pretty good, other than that stator plate being 180 degrees off. Anyway, I didn't throw anything away, so I can always put the condenser back on if I have to. I'll head out to the shed in a bit to see if I can tell for sure which boyer it is.

You are close up against the slot. Don't assume that it is right. Strobe it.
Keeping the condensers and ballast resister if you have the original points to revert back.
T

Strobing is priority number one as soon as the last of the parts are put on. Got my degree wheel and piston stop made and ready to go . All I need now is the strobe light.

I've just had a look, and it appears to be a MK III unit. So I think I should be ok without the condenser eh.