RGM MK3 Belt Drive

Gidday.

I have purchased an RGM belt drive kit to replace my Electric start mechanisms and simplify the whole primary drive.
The kit fitted up well enough and when started, the belt sits nicely in the middle of the clutch pulley.

The problem is that the clutch push rod ends up sitting nearly flush with the face of assembly. I only have a few threads available to screw the adjuster on.

I have spent ages ensuring it is seated correctly in the gear box, but it seems as though the pushrod is too long.

The old pushrod was lost (long story) and I can;t measure the replacement one, but that is unlikely to be the problem.

I definately fitted the washer on the gearbox shaft that spaces the clutch assembly prior to locking it on.

Any clues lads?

Hillbone.

Please be advised! The clutch pushrod ends are hardened extremely. Any thing less than the OEM part will disintegrate in the first run. Even a tough stainless rod will mushroom over and there will be hell to pay trying to get it out. No short cuts here! Get a real one.
04-0084 around $16.00

pvisseriii said:

Please be advised! The clutch pushrod ends are hardened extremely. Any thing less than the OEM part will disintegrate in the first run. Even a tough stainless rod will mushroom over and there will be hell to pay trying to get it out. No short cuts here! Get a real one.
04-0084 around $16.00

Click to expand...

But they are very easy to harden. Just use O1 tool steel rod or a shortened original rod and heat the end red hot with your propane torch or a gas stove burner and quench it in oil. Instantly just as hard as original. Jim

A cut in the middle would not bother the wear ends.
This rod is always under compression loads so can be in two pieces and work fine.
Old mod for stiffle gear lube drool down rod into clutch plates was to cut it down enough to place a steel ball in between so oil dipped off rather than run along length. Some just necked rod for same function, others pack with grease.
Ball should be fairly close to clutch end in gear box. Make sure the TS cable lever/ball gizmo is seated right.

hobot said:

A cut in the middle would not bother the wear ends.
This rod is always under compression loads so can be in two pieces and work fine.
Old mod for stiffle gear lube drool down rod into clutch plates was to cut it down enough to place a steel ball in between so oil dipped off rather than run along length. Some just necked rod for same function, others pack with grease.
Ball should be fairly close to clutch end in gear box. Make sure the TS cable lever/ball gizmo is seated right.

Click to expand...

You still have to harden the rod ends in the middle or they will make a mess in the middle of the shaft. Been there done that. Jim

hillbone said:

Gidday.



The problem is that the clutch push rod ends up sitting nearly flush with the face of assembly. I only have a few threads available to screw the adjuster on.

I have spent ages ensuring it is seated correctly in the gear box, but it seems as though the pushrod is too long.

The old pushrod was lost (long story) and I can;t measure the replacement one, but that is unlikely to be the problem.

I definately fitted the washer on the gearbox shaft that spaces the clutch assembly prior to locking it on.

Any clues lads?

Hillbone.

Click to expand...

Chances are the clutch stack is too short in the new housing. Check the diaphram spring after installation. With a straightedge you should see that the center of the diaphram is slightly concave. .5mm lower in the center is about perfect. If it is more than 1mm lower in the center you will need to add some extra or thicker steel plates. Between 1mm low and flat is usable. Jim

Thanks for the info. I'll try a shortened version of the pushrod. I'll ask RGM first if anyone else has had to shorten the pushrod. Thanks again.