Reviewing Madass's new single disc.

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Steve, If you don't believe, then try following a hell-bent ex-Westwood racer thru the Coast Mountains. I have and the brake overheated badly. If it worked even half decent in those conditions I wouldnt be replacing it.

For me, the back brake is about right as is if paired with a good front brake. There is a reason modern high speed bikes stay with small low powered brakes on the rear.
Glen
 
Hi Don here is a couple of pics of the rear set up I have made for my track bike, Bike #2
I have retained as many original parts as possible, your one piece axle holds it all in place with the axle put in from the left hand side to hang it all together while putting the rear wheel in and meshing the cush drive.
I did this to achieve an easier method to change gearing for different tracks.
It involved parting off the original cast 42 tooth sprocket , machining a collar ring, sweat fit onto the now machined hub, spot welded in place through peep holes inside the hub back to the ring, then maching up sprockets to bolt on.
Smallest tooth count is 44 due to clearance issues.
Regards Mike

Reviewing Madass's new single disc.
Reviewing Madass's new single disc.
Reviewing Madass's new single disc.
 
yep thats what I figured also, its not really possible to have a 42t sprocket thats a bolt on, there is just not enough meat between 7" drum I.D and base of sprocket teeth to get a reliable mounting, I would rather go for a larger 44t or similar, bolt on sprocket than a 42t one piece sprocket/drum, I've sold about 150 of my conical "Manx" wheels for Featherbed projects and they have a 47t sprocket.
 
thanks Willy, its good when a plan comes together.
bees knees
ducks nuts
hmmm
 
stockie2 said:
Be careful with that anchor, I reckon you could pull off a stoppie if you pull up really hard. Nice report and hats off to you and Don for creating such nice stuff!
Cheers Richard
Thanks Richard. To be clear though, I'm just a punter who bought one of the first sets and wanted to share my experience with other forum members. Don's the one who did all the hard yakka and deserves all the credit. Cheers. Bill
 
Don, in case you truly retire some day, are there replacement pads readily available?

Glen
 
very much available, same pads fit a variety of Kawasaki and Suzuki models
 
maddass brake sure polishes up nice with the gold trim and his rear hubs are spectalular too. I don't like Peel's dull blue rotor anodizing so will paint it and buff around her's too. Peel needs to have a variable rear sprocket for the scope of her activities parking lot stunts to interstate curse to the Texas Mile for a run to max out.

Worntorn, you have touched the very subject that has driven me and readers and local riders nuts. If I am on ordinary cycles, I'd be burning the pads off too and have on my SuVee but even the best motorcycles can't brake like good cases can. All other fast cycles use brakes to slow for sharper turns in heats, not Peel no Sir Ree BoB! Brakes dont' work for slowing going fairly fast on THE Gravel so also learned on tarmac to fling sideways to bleed speed or power on through on rear only > out accelerating the crashing forces so we can crash into the next new line just right no let off. I learned this on my SV and a tract Ninja but they can not take the loads like Peel so gave up on em. i tend to down shift for turns to point the rear skips on engine drag so next instant of throttle up trips her down and around faster easier than me a human can. Get it wrong and ya can die. Only really predicable cycle I care to do that on is a tammed isolastic Commando, unbelievable. Slipper clutches have no appeal to me thank goodness.

It takes balls to really test brake and braking limits, scarest thing to me, so worntorn hope you survive your flings testing your new wonder brake. Before I kick up throttle heels I test my own nerves first, can I lock instants up on THE Gravel or Tarmac at hwy speeds, again and again > if just piss me off with so little braking I'm ok to go, if I can't stand its fear reactions to reflex catch the trip outs, I just putter around like normal racers that day, heating brakes to stay calm.

Trixie can't hold her front tire against poked out Lockheed so can't lift rear out of effective traction so best slowing on her, a regualar ole 750 I use rear brake just ahead of the front squeal force, but just don't go that fast around on her knowing her limits. If I get her crossed up on THE Gravel going around > THE Hinge onset begins in earnest so just try avoid it on her at all times but it still run into some on about every outing.
 
It is things like this brake which really piss me off. In Australia we cannot use anything like that in historic racing. We are not permitted to use pudding basin helmets, yet we have kids riding old dungers fitted with drum brakes. It would seem sensible to me to allow the use of single disc brakes on manx nortons in historic races. Perhaps not with 6 spot calipers, but the record speaks for itself - the number of guys who got killed racing in the fifties on bikes fitted with drum brakes, shit tyres and wearing pudding basin helmets . Appearance should not be the be all and end all ?
 
unless they intend buying my upcoming twin disc brake kit which requires a 5/8" M/C
 
I had the front brake on my 74 Commando running up highway 1 from LA to Monterey.
 
Sleeving the master cylinder wont stop the pads from overheating.

Glen
 
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