Reversing motor

After a bad rotor and stator meltdown I have replaced all the parts and now am trying to set the timing. Using the degree wheel from this site and a TDC tool I can set the dial (wire) to 0 deg with both valves closed (springs not compressed when looking at it) I rotate the rear tire in the forward travel rotation (or kick start) the degree wheel rotates to the BTDC area (counter clockwise). So I set it to 31 deg (with boyer) and reassembled everything. After a few kicks to start I would get a fire at the end of the kick stroke but would not run. I then took it all apart again and this is where I get the brain fart and think I should have to reversed the travel of the wheel and rotate it past the ATDC and BDC (clockwise) and set it to 31 deg BTDC. I reassemble it all and try to start it, and nothing. After a few kicks I get a pop from the exhaust. I adjusted the boyer a bit and now get a pop out of the carbs. I think I was right the first time but now I have myself all confused and don't know what is right. please help. Thanks in advance.

Yes, you need to turn the crank in the opposite direction to normal rotation (i.e. 'backwards') from TDC, so before TDC.

if you have a boyer, you can probably download the instructions from their website, which is a step-bystep instruction that makes the set up a simpler process.

Hi blipJC.
From your info "...degree wheel from this site and a TDC tool I can set the dial (wire) to 0 deg with both valves closed...", I can't determine that you have actually found Top Dead Centre (TDC).
If so, then the crank goes clockwise to set Before TDC (looking from drive side).
The primary cover timing mark should be the same as the degree wheel (mine isn't so I correct for the error).
Then you are good to set the Boyer per instructions.

I find TDC as follows:

Pull both plugs.
Rotate engine by hand, (forward direction) and look in left cylinder plug hole. You will see the intake valve open.
Continue to rotate until the intake valve closes and disappears from view thru the plug hole.
At this point, engine is near BDC.
Continue to rotate engine by hand, (forward) and insert a rod into the plug hole. When the rod reaches its apex (highest point) engine is at TDC on compression stroke for left cylinder.
Rock engine back and forth while feeling rod for maximum height, and split the difference where you can feel the rod reach max height. Call this TDC and set your degree wheel at zero at this point.

Then rotate engine backwards to the timing point you desire. If your degree wheel is calibrated zero to 360, you may have to subtract the timing value from 360 (I.e. 330 degrees if you are trying to time 30 BTDC).

Slick

Thanks all. I decided to go simple and used the mark on the rotor and timing indicator plate, it worked. I then adjusted accordingly to get 31 deg at 4200 RPM. Runs ok. a little popping from the left cylinder every now and then but ridable.

I took the bike out for a 20 min. run on the hi-way today and ran good. when I got home I could see white smoke coming out of the rear gasket of the chaincase where it connects to the crankcase. I opened the timing inspection cap and smoke was coming from there also. I could see the stator and rotor and there was no sign of melting from what I could see. I could still rotate the engine so there was no seizing of the rotor. I would think I would have already seen a problem if there was a gap issue again after a 15 min run in the city and 20 min on the hi-way at 70 MPH. I will check the oil level in the chaincase agin. Is there something else I should check without tearing it all apart again?

blipJC said:

I took the bike out for a 20 min. run on the hi-way today and ran good. when I got home I could see white smoke coming out of the rear gasket of the chaincase where it connects to the crankcase. I opened the timing inspection cap and smoke was coming from there also. I could see the stator and rotor and there was no sign of melting from what I could see. I could still rotate the engine so there was no seizing of the rotor. I would think I would have already seen a problem if there was a gap issue again after a 15 min run in the city and 20 min on the hi-way at 70 MPH. I will check the oil level in the chaincase agin. Is there something else I should check without tearing it all apart again?

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Hi blipJC.
Re your: "...white smoke coming out of the rear gasket of the chaincase where it connects to the crankcase...".
Could you clarify this location please?
I would be inclined to investigate the root cause of said white smoke especially as you state "... I opened the timing inspection cap and smoke was coming from there also...". Primary chain case and white smoke are not often used in the same sentence.
Ta.

blipJC said:

I took the bike out for a 20 min. run on the hi-way today and ran good. when I got home I could see white smoke coming out of the rear gasket of the chaincase where it connects to the crankcase. I opened the timing inspection cap and smoke was coming from there also. I could see the stator and rotor and there was no sign of melting from what I could see. I could still rotate the engine so there was no seizing of the rotor. I would think I would have already seen a problem if there was a gap issue again after a 15 min run in the city and 20 min on the hi-way at 70 MPH. I will check the oil level in the chaincase agin. Is there something else I should check without tearing it all apart again?

Click to expand...

Damn MLIII's. They'll break your heart every time.

It was coming out of the back of the chaincase where the crankshft enteres the chaincase. There is a gasket there and thats where it was coming out of. I will post a pic.

Here is where I saw It.

There's also a seal that may have been damaged by the alternator melt-down.

Hi blipJC.
All is not well.
At least take the primary outer cover off to check if:
a. engine oil is filling the primary case = drive seal is leaking oil from the engine to primary case
b. with inner tensioned using spacer and nut, is the rotor/stator air gap preserved = incorrectly shimmed inner cover
c. as for b., does the gap where your finger points to change = incorrectly shimmed inner cover and loose and untabbed fixing setscrews
d. inner cover is securely fastened to the crankcase = loose and untabbed fixing setscrews
Ta.

Assumption: after the ride, oil on the header would be burnt off. Burning oil = white smoke.
Could a drip from the primary case onto the header 'appeared' to have wafted around and from the primary case?

When you melted down the stator, you probably melted down the crankcase oil seal on the primary side too... If you are very lucky, you didn't ruin the crankshaft baring on that side, but it's hard to say.

Anyway, you need to start the bike and see where the smoke is coming from, then work backwards to eliminate it...

I went to start the bike and take it around to my garage and there was no smoke. I took it for a 15 min ride and no sign of smoke at all. I have been riding on little trips around the neighbourhood all day and have seen no smoke at all. I will keep an eye on it and see what happens.

blipJC said:

I went to start the bike and take it around to my garage and there was no smoke. I took it for a 15 min ride and no sign of smoke at all. I have been riding on little trips around the neighbourhood all day and have seen no smoke at all. I will keep an eye on it and see what happens.

Click to expand...

Possibly the primary-crankcase gasket was dried up by the heat of the alternator flame-out and has now absorbed some oil and swelled enough to stop the leak. Keep an eye on the primary oil level and it it seems to increase, you may have to remove the inner primary and replace the main seal. If that happens, you'll want to replace the gasket while you're in there.