ReTorqueing Head with Engine in Frame

phillyskip · Jan 25, 2014

When my 750 Commando engine was on the building stand torqueing the head was a challenge( for me a life long Triumph guy),but I did my best by making specialized tools to fit into the tight spaces. Now that the engine is in the frame and bike "almost" complete how do you retorque the head? I can't get any motion on my wrenches without running into stuff on the bike. The only easily accessible ones are the four on the top right and left side. How do you handle this? Thanks,Skip

davamb · Jan 25, 2014

Hi Skip,

I made up this:

for $20 and it works just fine with the engine in situ. Full details are here about half-way down the page.

Onder · Jan 25, 2014

where is here?

phillyskip · Jan 25, 2014

First ,thanks for responding. I see how it could work on the top 4 side fasteners,and the front two lower(that screw up). How do you get that to work on the front 3 upper and the rear single. Doesn't the length of the handle restrict your movement?

1up3down · Jan 25, 2014

the rear single correct torque is.....nicely hard on that laddy, but no need to really beef on it

the three front top ones...it IS possible to use a longer extension on the socket and get a torque wrench on top of that

however, this is quite finicky and so I have always successfully resorted to ....nicely hard but don't really beef on it

seriously, it is not the space shuttle, use your own common sense of how hard to stretch the threads, trust your experience

rvich · Jan 25, 2014

What exactly are we hitting with the wrench? If you remove the tank, carbs and coils there isn't much in the way.

Russ

Guido · Jan 25, 2014

I can get a torque wrench on only the 3 top nuts and the barrel nuts. Took a 14mm socket and slimmed it down on the lathe. You could use a bench grinder.
The 2 long nuts in front I use a 11mm wrench with handle cut off just long enough to clear the frame.
Those get snugged up before each ride if needed.
It takes me more time removing the tank, rightside coil than it takes to torque the head.
You have to make those 2 tools for it to be done.

Whatever you do, don't flake out on the retorque.
Stick to the torquing schedule.

Hobot · Jan 25, 2014

Most useful whitworth wrench to acquire is the S bend 1/4w- box end. The deep center nut is easy as plugs with just a narrowed socket 6" extension 3/8" ratchet. I of course only go by my grunt sounds to set torque at home or long trip away soon after a rebuild when needed most often.

davamb · Jan 25, 2014

Onder said:
where is here?

Just click on the word "here" in the original post Onder or the following URL:
stripped-t11160-75.html

grandpaul · Jan 26, 2014

I've managed to re-tighten WITHOUT removing the coils, etc.

It can be done by loosening the offending parts and sliding them out of the way.

All of the hardware can be tightened in place, it just takes fiddling.

Some aftermarket head steadies do get in the way, and have to be removed at least partially.

Towner · Jan 26, 2014

The three nuts at top front have never been a problem for me. But the three nuts which are accessible from the bottom are a bit tricky.
Most guys tighten them without a torque wrench by feel. If you want do have it more exactly you can use an extension on your torque wrench.
The torque must be recalculated then. This can help:
http://www.freeinfostuff.com/TorqueExte ... ension.htm

If you apply the wrench on the extension with an angle of 90 degrees, you can take the original torque setting.

"Notice that if the angle reaches 90°, the effective length of the extension becomes zero and the applied torque is exactly the same as the wrench setting. "

Ralf

Hobot · Jan 26, 2014

I only have to remove tank to get socket and ratchet into the center hole and this little shop jewel to get to the others.

grandpaul · Jan 26, 2014

Towner said:
Most guys tighten them without a torque wrench by feel.

I don't know about "most", but I know about more than one...

Hobot · Jan 26, 2014

Factory did not use T-wrench but on the rod cap nuts and only last decade, most this forum and INOA that I started to read about crow feet hassles and types of T-wrenches to use, so rather a new thing with fairly new builders that seem to require them for peace of mind but when pressed even the most disciplined of T-wrench users admit they have re-nipped by feel when on the road or finding a weep before a ride inspection. Even if ya only date a goat or a sheep once... don't tell anyone : )

phillyskip · Jan 31, 2014

To "ALL" thanks for responding to this thread. I found that once I removed my tank I was able to retorque from above the 3 front and 4 top side fasteners.The two 11mm ones I got with a long box type metric spanner. The one in the rear I got with a slimmed down whit worth spanner. When I was using the torque wrench on the 7 I could get to I stopped at at 27 ft lbs. I didn't dare go anymore. Thanks,Skip

ReTorqueing Head with Engine in Frame

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