Replacing the dust cover on the rear hub, rivets?

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Jul 3, 2012
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Has anyone replaced the ‘dust cover’ on rear hub?
This bike is a 57’ 19S, but probably common to lots of others
I don’t want to take it apart until I know I can fix it, I would like it to look original so rivets not screws
Are the rivets ‘easy’ to remove?
How are the rivets retained inside the hub?
What sort of tool do you use to peen them over?
Thanks!
 
Don't know when they changed from rivets to screws, but by 63 atlas they were phillips head screws. I now use stainless round heads slotted screws since they stay shinier longer and easier to get/find. Hard to tell when your standing up next to the bike.
 
I believe they are not true rivets, but they are a twist in, & twist out.

Mike B.
 
twist in and out? That would be a screw ;)
my N15CS has screws, the 57' I think are rivets
I guess I could replace them with screws, fill the slot and paint them, they are a copper-ish color
 
mark99 said:
twist in and out? That would be a screw ;)
my N15CS has screws, the 57' I think are rivets
I guess I could replace them with screws, fill the slot and paint them, they are a copper-ish color

The rivets are more like a spiral ... they hold only by the friction of being slightly oversize.

I did as Dynodave suggests ... replaced with 6-32 round head slotted .... close enough to original slotted screws for my non purist taste.

Slick
 
texasSlick said:
mark99 said:
twist in and out? That would be a screw ;)
my N15CS has screws, the 57' I think are rivets
I guess I could replace them with screws, fill the slot and paint them, they are a copper-ish color

The rivets are more like a spiral ... they hold only by the friction of being slightly oversize.

I did as Dynodave suggests ... replaced with 6-32 round head slotted .... close enough to original slotted screws for my non purist taste.

Slick
They look as this: http://www.norvilmotorcycle.co.uk/061287.htm

I take a Dremel and slot the head a little. So I could turn it out with a screwdriver (sometimes).

Fritz
 
bad_friday said:
texasSlick said:
The rivets are more like a spiral ... they hold only by the friction of being slightly oversize.

I did as Dynodave suggests ... replaced with 6-32 round head slotted .... close enough to original slotted screws for my non purist taste.

Slick
They look as this: http://www.norvilmotorcycle.co.uk/061287.htm

I take a Dremel and slot the head a little. So I could turn it out with a screwdriver (sometimes).

Fritz

try here:
http://www.accessnorton.com/timing-indicator-rivits-how-can-easily-get-them-out-t25208.html

same thing you're doing
 
Thanks!
I am a little afraid of nicking the cover when flattening the sides, I hate to damage any original part, even if I am not going to use it, but I guess I shouldn't worry about it
 
I was under the impression that they were the same sort of screws we used during my apprenticeship building and testing big electric motors and generators with which to attach the manufacturers nameplates....round headed knock in things that you hammered into a drilled hole and they twisted themselves in.....total pains in the arse to remove as they had no hex or slotted head..........Have just phoned to check I am correct and I am.....They are known in Birmingham as TAP TIGHTS.....Hardened steel.......You drill the hole, place the undercut part of it in the hole and then hit with a hammer and it screws itself in. There was another version available with a slotted head but all those fitted to early Dommy hubs were round headed and the friend removes them for customers by eroding them out AFTER the customer has made a right **** up of trying to do !!.
My parts book (1960s)refers to them as Drive screws for diaphragm...6 off ... part number 18396. picking up Supercession and amended part number list book.... Part number 18396 became .......NOTHING SHOWN.
Right... Commando parts book....Disc Screws 6 off part number 060787. Of course as they were probably made in the UK and we dont make much /anything any more in the UK.......apart from total cock ups such as our new one billion pounds each type 45 destroyers..... The screws are probably available from China.... Or India.... although i bet the quality is crap.....
 
Drive rivets.
very hard and the heads will often snap off when trying to remove, I've used 2 methods to remove them
(1) TRY TO GET UNDER THE HEAD FROM EITHER SIDE AT THE SAME TIME AND LEVER THEM OUT
(2) stick weld an electrode to the head, make a slide hammer out of an electrode and stick it on to the head, dont
try to weld it , just stick the rod on there so it fuses on.
you wont be able to drill them, they are to hard
when all this fails rotate the cover 1/8" and drill and tap 6 new holes
Don
 
When I was an engineering apprentice for Hoover UK, I remember them being called milled rivets and I recall they were mostly used for securing machine tool i.d./rating plates. As previously stated once driven in they were a nightmare to remove.
 
Thanks everyone,
I guess they figured the dust cover would last forever
Interesting, it sounds like for some people they just twist out, other times they don't want to come out at all
as far as rotating the dust cover, the large holes line up with the nuts that hold on the brake hub
I suppose the new screws locations could be offset, but they are currently 'centered' on the large holes
 
mark99 said:
Thanks everyone,
it sounds like for some people they just twist out,
other times they don't want to come out at all

Maybe that suggests who you should take advise and their methods from :roll:
 
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