replacement ignition switch

O.K. guys,
After a considerable amount of time devoted to chasing down a mystery
misfire at highway speed, and doing some searches on the forum...
I found the topic about a dirty ignition switch being a possible culprit.
Well mine wasn't just dirty, it's shot. One of the rivets almost totally
gone and the other was very loose. Upon disassembly, I can't believe the 'ol
Commando even ran! There is no saving it.
Did a bit of checkin on the web, they are available of course.
But I remembered that a few years ago I went to the auto part store to get a generic one
for my old shovelhead. I looked at it and sure enough, it has the necessary
3 terminals, and is a 2 position (off-on).
Went to the parts store today and they had it, but it is a 3 position, off,on and presumably
accessory. Middle position must be off as key
can be removed.
My question, finally , is, has anyone else done this and what sequence should I do
to connect it? On the old original switch , 2 of the terminals are connected at the mount
point on base of switch. I figure the worst I could do would be a blown fuse.
But I'd like to avoid that with some guidance.
Thank Ya-
Dave

Yes but it's late will trace wire routing for newer switch tomorrow. :|

Thank You, I was hoping I had described it
adequately. I would order one, but after
checking and rechecking my carbs,valves,
ignition components etc, I prefer not to wait
any longer to find out how good it's going
to run. That is if switch can be wired to work!
Dave

To be candid a switch is a switch. Years ago I was riding in Florida with a girlfriend and she lost the key to her 1988 Harley FXR. I removed the key stripped the wires back and hard wired it. When we got to a town with a auto parts store bought a on/off toggle switch and wired it in. I hid the switch under the seat. She was so happy that she didn't have to worry about keeping track of a key it stayed that way until she sold the bike 3 years latter.

Not sure what year you have, but the 68/70 2 position switches can be taken apart and cleaned and de-oxed. Replace the staked pins with machine screws/locknuts. Not an unusual problem with old parts. The later switches can probably be repaired too, or hard wire it and put a switch somewhere only you know and leave the key in the ignition all the time, key won't matter.

Norton ign key switches are an after thought splap on joke and riding with a key and fob bouncing wind blasted is not smartest idea either. If not sticking with Norton only parts numbers might consider just couple toggle switches, spark and lights/horn unless local law requires ya to always park with pilot and tail light on all night long. For purest I'd make more sense to JBW key in ignition for show and put tiny toggles to bypass it. Pull a plug wire or fuse to kill it if really think a key is thief protection in your travels. Hehe ever try to pick up a glued down coin?

Who's to worry about starting your Norton? But they can take it in a heart beat. I never even remove the key from my ignition and no way I have any weight on it, but at home I always remove the fuse. When I'm out, it's never out of my sight.

DogT said:

Who's to worry about starting your Norton? But they can take it in a heart beat. I never even remove the key from my ignition and no way I have any weight on it, but at home I always remove the fuse. When I'm out, it's never out of my sight.

Click to expand...

Fuse? years ago on my 850, I was doing some battery maintenance and then went for a ride. About 5 miles along something was bugging me about the battery so I pulled over and found the fuse in my pocket! The bike started and ran just fine on the 2MC capacitor. I was gob smacked, the ignition was the ancient Boyer. I leave the key in all the time and if I have to I chain the bike up.