Repainting black cylinders in situ

Both the Commando and the 650 SS have some light rust showing here and there on the black barrels. The paint on there now is a very thin layer, not really even fully covering the bare cast in some spots.
I would like to repaint the cylinders in place, since both bikes are oil tight and running great. It occurrs that it will be a lot of work to mask of the entire bike and just leave the affected area exposed. A bit like prepping a patient for knee surgery in the OR!
Has anyone used a brush on paint for this and if so, did it last OK?

Glen

I painted the barrels on my Bonneville with some rustoleum gloss black and a small brush. I did it at a time when I had the carbs and exhuast off which made it a lot easier. That was about 4 years ago and it still looks good. Unless the barrels are off the engine and you can turn them to different angles to get in all the nooks and crannies the brush may actually give better coverage. On a rough surface you're never going to see the brush marks.

worntorn said:

Both the Commando and the 650 SS have some light rust showing here and there on the black barrels. The paint on there now is a very thin layer, not really even fully covering the bare cast in some spots.
I would like to repaint the cylinders in place, since both bikes are oil tight and running great. It occurrs that it will be a lot of work to mask of the entire bike and just leave the affected area exposed. A bit like prepping a patient for knee surgery in the OR!
Has anyone used a brush on paint for this and if so, did it last OK?

Glen

Click to expand...

I masked around the cylinder head and base then sprayed with rattle can high temp, then did a second coat with a medium artists brush. It came out great.

I painted the barrels on my Bonneville with some rustoleum gloss black and a small brush

Click to expand...

yes, me too

I remember taking an old Tshirt and cleaning between the fins and then just brushing it on everywhere, easy job

I used a high temp Rustoleum, think is was good to 500 degrees maybe


I did use a semi gloss, figuring a gloss or high gloss would look too shiny, 10 years later now and they still look good

Sounds like the Rustoleum is the ticket. I've only used it in Aerosol cans, did not know it was available in a slower dry brushable type. Thanks

Glen

I sprayed mine with silver HiTemp paint sometime ago, only thing I removed was the tacho drive .
Quickly masked it out with wide tape first, then cut along lines with a Stanley workshop knife, then used newspapaer with second strips of masking tape stuck to first masking tape above and below the barrel lines around the cases and head. Used a peice of cardboard to guard against any overspray when I actually sprayed
3 x coats here is the result
Regards Mike
Before

After

I've done rattle can decently, after careful masking and ragging or waxing for over spray. Engine block paint worked for me and easy touch up but others should last a few seasons before rust hints showing again. The Rustoleum I used on fan air cooled twin lawnmower charred to dark brown-black on fins and where hot air blew on air duct tin. Charred black paint is harder to tell than the Chevy Orange I used on mower though. Its hard to get coverage deep in fin valleys w/o over doing it to run. That's where I see rust first appear again, usually upper barrel so a brushing then a spritz w/o masking works for me.

if ya care to spend more for fancier rattle cans search up likes of GunKote that goes on very thin so takes a number of coats before running bakes it on but still so thin it does not fill in the surface texture much like paint tends to do for smoother finish it that matters.

I done mine with the cylinder in place with High Temp Engine Spray can. Alot of masking & time but it was worth it.

I've used foam tipped swabs to get in between the fins. This is where it usually rusts. The paint is thick on the outside of the fins but doesn't go in deep enough. H-D gloss black is a bit expensive but good paint for this. For the head I go over it with a rag soaked with thinned out hi temp header aluminum header paint and also use the foam tipped swabs. This puts on a very thin coat and still looks good.

After LOTS of searching and reading, much of it here, I settled on VHT brake caliper paint: http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/janit ... oz-aerosol

The advantage being it is a high build paint and replicates not just the color and sheen of the original, but also the thickness and rounded edges of the original porcelain-like finish. 900F rating is overkill, but the stuff is TOUGH!

I used PLASTI-KOTE brake caliper spray paint and with careful preparation, the finish is excellent. Resist up to 480 celsius (900 farenheit). They recommand 3 - 4 thin coats. After 3 years, it still looks like new!

concours said:

After LOTS of searching and reading, much of it here, I settled on VHT brake caliper paint: http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/janit ... oz-aerosol

The advantage being it is a high build paint and replicates not just the color and sheen of the original, but also the thickness and rounded edges of the original porcelain-like finish. 900F rating is overkill, but the stuff is TOUGH!

Click to expand...

+1 :!: