Removing the MK3 air filter element and K&N filter oil

elefantrider

elefantrider

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The manual doesn't offer any instruction on how to best remove the MK3 wire mesh air filter screen. Looks to me like it should come out the right side of the bike but the nylon oil feed line and the back of the cylinder seems to prevent that. Any tips?
 
Its been a long time but the MK2A uses the same blackbox and I remember feeding it out so it fitted between the barrel fins and then pulling out to one side. The foam had disintegrated so I wasn.t trying to preserve it. My rocker feed is now stainless and has enough strength and slack to be pulled out the way.
 
I found there is no way to remove it with the nylon oil feed line in place.
While moving the old nylon line (probably original), it cracked. With the line completely out of the way, it was easy to remove the metal filter grid out the right side with a downward motion towards the cylinder base nuts.

The factory manual needs some updating!
 
One step forward, two steps back. At least a newly-made feed line won't crack again for while. I have a new roll of nylon line to make one.

Anyone have good long-term results using K&N filter oil with the AN foam filter? Have some here.

The last foam element dissolved into a million pieces.
 
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nortonmargie said:
I have had good long term results using a K&N filter. If anyone wants the original black box, PM me
Click to expand...
PM sent.


Yesterday, I picked up this $10 filter oil to try.
It is listed as foam compatible (unlike K&N's).




Removing the MK3 air filter element and K&N filter oil
 
As Torontonian said: It's really no problem with the braided SS line. When I replaced mine this past spring I found that I must have had a backfire as there was some melting of the foam.
BTW, backfire is back, through the intake. The loud bang in the exhaust is actually an afterfire. It always bugs me when I hear it called a backfire.
K&N filters are good for stopping rocks and small birds from entering your engine. Better than nothing, I suppose.
 
I might make the nylon feed line a little longer. That way, I'll have more play to R&R the foam filter.

Did K&N ever make a flat filter to fit inside the stock MK3 airbox?

I am guessing no because the pleats would be impossible to fit in the thin slots of the airbox.

I much prefer an oiled gauze filter over foam.

Judging from how dirty the oil was in my recently-aquired MK3, the oiled foam filter did not do a very good job.
 
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The nylon line is an accident waiting to happen, it hardens and becomes brittle as it ages and can snap. Mine snapped just as I was about to set off right at a banjo joint, I quickly removed the 1/2" from the banjo and slid the other end over the banjo and did my trip. When I got home the SS version was installed. I was lucky, your big ends lose pressure when the pipe leaks and won't last when the oil runs out or your rear tyre slips from under you.
 
worntorn said:
If that braided stainless line ever gets up against anything , it will saw it to bits. Other than that, it's good stuff!

Glen
Click to expand...
I agree. Make sure of your routing where it gets close to other parts. I use small rubber grommets that fit the diameter of the braided line and make a cut axially to one section of the donut shape of the grommet, and fit the grommet over the braided line where I want it to stay (like between the carb manifolds) and use a small zip Ty in the groove of the grommet. Job done. Nice and Neat and guarantees no contact.
 
CanukNortonNut said:
I agree. Make sure of your routing where it gets close to other parts. I use small rubber grommets that fit the diameter of the braided line and make a cut axially to one section of the donut shape of the grommet, and fit the grommet over the braided line where I want it to stay (like between the carb manifolds) and use a small zip Ty in the groove of the grommet. Job done. Nice and Neat and guarantees no contact.
Click to expand...
Modern braided stainless is available with a clear vinyl coating, prevents the abrasion damage.

My 13yo OldBritts line set has it.

Very commonplace.
 
This bike is a 4500mile all original, I have extra nyon line so will likely just go that route . New nylon line should be good for a while. The oil really only gets hot enough to bake the nylon on 1-2 of my long rides per year.
 
elefantrider said:
This bike is a 4500mile all original, I have extra nyon line so will likely just go that route . New nylon line should be good for a while. The oil really only gets hot enough to bake the nylon on 1-2 of my long rides per year.
Click to expand...
I put a nylon line (Commando part) from Andover on my 650SS about ten years ago when the original steel oil line cracked from vibration. The nylon line has worked well and it's still very pliable.

Glen
 

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