removing oil tight copper head gasket with pliobond

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jseng1

jseng1

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Now I'm hearing that sometimes the pliobond glue works a little too well and that the head doesn't want to pop loose on disassembly - if its stuck just use a piece of wood against the exhaust ring nut and tap it from underneath with a hammer - presto its loose.

removing oil tight copper head gasket with pliobond
 
jseng1 said:
Now I'm hearing that sometimes the pliobond glue works a little too well and that the head doesn't want to pop loose on disassembly - if its stuck just use a piece of wood against the exhaust ring nut and tap it from underneath with a hammer - presto its loose.

removing oil tight copper head gasket with pliobond
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Yep. I've encountered that, but it really isn't a problem, as long as you don't try prying it up with a screwdriver or hammering on the fins! And none of us would ever do that, right?

Ken
 
spot on ken,but I would,nt be hammering on the exhaust nut either,the threads are weak enough as it is,under exhaust port or even top of,or maybe under inlet ports ??????????? chris
 
chris plant said:
spot on ken,but I would,nt be hammering on the exhaust nut either,the threads are weak enough as it is,under exhaust port or even top of,or maybe under inlet ports ??????????? chris
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If the ex nut is tightened home - you're not going to damage the threads. Use a wooden block against the steel nut and hit the block. I only use a bead of the glue around the bore, the oil return hole and the pushrod tunnels. You don't need a wide band of glue going out past the bolt holes.
 
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Ah so, does a hick shade tree good to read flute refined elites discussing methods of bashing glued on heads loose. Hindus use snake rope trick, [unless a seizure case], stuffing cord into plug hole on piston with valves closed to kick start it off. Personally I'd rather have some oil weeping to wash off than crude bashing wood to splinters glue breaking, which don't always work slick as advertised, if not the one guiding the over gluing it down in first place.
 
Another way .....

Fit a grease-zert to a broke off spark plug, with piston at TDC,valves closed, and crank rotation blocked, pump in a dose of grease.

Slick
 
Stuff cord/rag or bb's inside 1st to lower amount of grease pumped with crank chucked of course. Never want to face glued on heads again as even harsh bashing may just chew up nice blocks of wood and my mood. I'll never put anything with much adhesive there no mo.

Hmm just had a thought, if engine runnable why not loosen fasteners at bit then fire it up till smoke/fire jets out seams.
 
hobot said:
Hmm just had a thought, if engine runnable why not loosen fasteners at bit then fire it up till smoke/fire jets out seams.
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When one thinks about it, just kicking engine over with loose head bolts, will generate over 900 pounds of force if valves are good and pistons do not have holes in tops.

CR x atm press. x pi x d x d /4 = 935 pounds for 9:1CR and 3inch bore
 
Well in my cases usually engine seized. Also figured if unable to free head by sane methods mere kick PSI would not be enough either but will keep in mind for next time needs head off & not seizure related. Always seems to be a next time. Fact is I rarely feel competent and few times I felt capable to dive in - ended up damaging wood metal and sense of self worth. Helps to know others can handle it so keeps me trying.
 
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