Removing head

g'day fellas, removing head for the first time to replace leaky head gasket,RHS pipe has been blowing a little smoke when engine has warmed up, im not sure the gasket is the problem but its somewhere to start,,what pitfalls are there and what freakin size are the head bolts!!!!,,,and exhaust locking rings seem real tight any tips,,,i am slightly mechanical having worked on my dirt bikes,,how much room do you need(do you need to remove coil assembly),,,what is best type of head gasket to replace with,i know im probably going over old ground here but just use gasket no sealant(gasket goo)? and when retorqueing refer to service manual?,,,rich

MK 111 said:

what freakin size are the head bolts!!!!

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If you mean the head bolt/nut hexagons, then they are 1/4" Whitworth (or 5/16" BS/F) spanner size (.525"). Late model sleeve nut hexagons ( #7 & #8 under the exhaust ports) are 7/16" A/F.

MK 111 said:

how much room do you need(do you need to remove coil assembly),,,

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Removing the coil assembly shouldn't be difficult although it's easier if the coils are unbolted from the bracket first.

One pitfall my bike suffered from, was from a previous BLACKSMITH while changing a head gasket failed to clean the part line at head/cylinder thoroughly, and judging from the scoring on the lifters/bores, dropped sand down the pushrod tunnels. Could have been from tappet adjustment as well. POOR HYGIENE.

Use solvent/soap and water, compressed air. screwdriver to get it all as clean as you can before dismantling.

You'll need a 1/4W socket, 5" extension, 1/4W ring spannerand a 7/16" box wrench for the head fasteners.

Yes, take a monet to remove the coil bracket, be sure and mark the wires if you're squeamish about that stuff.

Have you downloaded a workshop manual yet? Good place to start.

Ha, no one has mentioned the real hassle to remove head, getting the pushrods to move all the way up to clear the barrel if still in bike. Lift the Intake rod up first then wear neck brace after consuming a nerve/mind numbing substance and plan to send quality fettering time in bent down position of Norton worship. Zip ties snugged around each pair hold my p-rod wedged up after the hassle to get em up, which still barely clears barrel so head must be tipped a bit to extract. I love my 1/4 whitworth bent closed end wrench for this act of devotion. I ground down the walls a bit of the socket used to get to the front sunken bolts. Coils must be moved out the way too. Rubber bands over top of head on the rockers will help hold p-rods in place putting back in. I put the oil banjo's back in to wrap zip ties or last time a couple wraps with bungee cord to hold head up once lifted, and the push rod puzzle begins. The ancients gave prisoners similar puzzles to solve before they were let go...

I know hobot seems to think getting the rods out of the way is magic, but I never seemed to have any trouble with them. I followed the workshop book method, once you get the rods stuffed up in the head past the rockers and held in place, it comes out fine. Rubber bands on the rockers to hold them up and rubbers on the rods too, or stuff a rag by them to keep up. You may need a couple blocks of wood to hold the head up while doing this. You'll need a thin walled 1/4WW spanner for that rear centre long nut.

Make sure you get all the nuts and bolts off, count them.

Dave
69S

I'm not half the mechanic I'd like to be or most the wise ones are. Best trick I know is grind the rocker ends down like racers then its total non-fumble issue even to me.
On Trixie Combat I had to actually moderate force the exht rods up against wedge friction against rocker and intake rod. Fooled me to neck strain before I realized that's was only way Trixie's puzzle had to be. Valve springs tend to lift head on last bolt freed and resist head settling till center bolt snugged.

concours said:

One pitfall my bike suffered from, was from a previous BLACKSMITH while changing a head gasket failed to clean the part line at head/cylinder thoroughly, and judging from the scoring on the lifters/bores, dropped sand down the pushrod tunnels. Could have been from tappet adjustment as well. POOR HYGIENE.Use solvent/soap and water, compressed air. screwdriver to get it all as clean as you can before dismantling.

You'll need a 1/4W socket, 5" extension, 1/4W ring spannerand a 7/16" box wrench for the head fasteners.

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That is a great tip for some of us who just willy nilly go in there to make or just to check valve clearance. Such an assessable area, so for from being innocuous.

"and exhaust locking rings seem real tight any tips"

Best time to loosen the exhaust rings is when the engine is hot. If it's cold you need to heat up the exhaust port area with a propane torch or similar.

Also when separating the head from the cylinder there should be no reason to have to pry it loose. If it doesn't come apart from a compressed valve spring, you don't have all 10 fasterners removed. Prying will only break a heat fin.

I put a propane torch to the exhaust ring bolts and around the head area for half a cigarett before I pick up the sickle spanner and 3 lb sledge, then one to three way aimmed smacks and it loose goosey again. I reverse the process w/o heat then start and finish with strong smacks once hot again. Pink Milk of Magnesia is only anti-seize that will take heat and not just melt and flow away down front or just evaporate.

Not a bad idea to place dental floss or real cotton or silk thread around the push rod tunnels along with your favorite goop.

I am about to do this and read on NOC uk forum that its a good idea to remove the front engine mount to give a bit more clearance for getting the head out- anyone take this approach on here - any issues with it ?

I've never had to do anything with the iso to get head in or out and being lazy I like that. Its the extra work some go to, to avoid the push rod fumble, because they can be real stinkers.