Removing/changing Z plates.

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gtsun

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Sep 21, 2009
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Spaking of Z plates, I'm going to be using rear sets and have a extra set of plates I drilled & polished to use with them. The origianal ones on my bike are in nice shape so I want to keep them that way & switch to the ones I drilled. My question is this, when I try to take off the old plates will BOTH nuts come off the large top bolt that holds the iso mount or will I have to remove it. And if I do what do I have to do to make sure I can get it back in? These mounts are new teritory for me. Thanks.
 
Speaking of using drilled Z plates, how reasonable is it to hollow out the stock z plates, similar to that shown on Commando Specialities website: http://www.commandospecialties.com/Prod ... &ProdID=47
I like the look but wonder if there is adequate strength once the stock ones have been opened up. I see that Commando Specialties suggests that theirs are stronger than the original. Anybody opened their stock ones up and found them up to the job?

Stephen Hill
1968 Fastback
1970 Mercury
1971 Roadster
1974 Interstate
 
yes, take the main nut off each side of the iso rod. Leave the rod in place. Take off the other bolts that attach them to the frame.
 
Unfortunatly the left nut wants to spin with the bolt. I guess I will need to make/ get something to hold the bolt to take off the right side nut. Something like a large stud extractor to hold it? Thanks for the help.
 
Mine was like that the first time I took them out. It's kinda tricky as it's made to definitely take off one side first. If you do the wrong side it just gets tighter and tighter. Took me afew minutes to figure out I wasn't getting anywhere. I tightened both sides back up , and started over on th other side until one unscrewed. Then I just slid the rod over towards the side with the nut still on . Attached some mini needle nose vise grips to the rod since there should be a space and unscrewed it.
 
One of the nylon lock nuts will come off before the other. Put a rag on the threads and hold it with vice grips to remove the other one. On reassembly reverse the process by holding the shaft and installing the tighter nut first. That way you can get equal thread protrusion on both sides.
 
Thanks for the input. That's what I thoght I should do & will try it after work today. Sooner or later I will be removing the whole thing for paint etc & may change to the adjustable iso's but not at this time. Thanks again.
 
Remove one nut and get two 1/2-20 plain nuts (jam nuts if you can find them) and lock them on that end of the stud. Hold with a wrench and remove the Nyloc nut from the other side. Tnen you can unlock the two nuts and spin them off.
 
DonOR said:
http://www.commandospecialties.com/Prod_Detail.asp?MSecID=55&ProdID=47

$449? they're really nice but... for that kinda money I'm pleased with what I have
Click to expand...

Wonder how they would work as a heat sink for the Zener?
 
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