Missing Z Plate Bolt

Just giving my 1974 Roadster a post-riding season cleaning and noticed that the lower bolt that connects the left z-plate to the frame gusset just above the left foot peg assembly is missing. The bolt, washers, spacer and nut are nowhere to be found. Don’t know where, when or how they disappeared. Didn’t notice any unusual noises while riding. Not sure if it’s even possible for the missing parts to end up there, but I’ll remove the primary cover to have a look inside for any stray bits. In the meantime, my question relates to replacing the missing nut, spacer and bolt. It’s pretty close quarters on the left side with the primary and chain in the way. My first impression is that the left foot peg assembly, the z-plate and possibly the left exhaust pipe and muffler may have to be removed to gain access to install a new bolt, washers, spacer and nut. Does anybody have any hints or shortcuts for replacing this bolt that doesn’t involve removing the left foot peg assembly, the z-plate and possibly left exhaust and muffler?

I had that apart last winter to put in slightly longer spacers behind the z-plate. I did remove all the parts you mention. Possibly you could just loosen everything up but it is not hard to take everything apart. It is usually pretty oily and gritty behind the z-plate so it could use cleaning.
Russ

Blue loctite is Norton Commandos best friend.
Apply to all bolts/nuts/ studs, prior to tightening.
IMHO
Nuff said.

CanukNortonNut said:

Blue loctite is Norton Commandos best friend.
Apply to all bolts/nuts/ studs, prior to tightening.
IMHO
Nuff said.

Click to expand...

Is this really true?

Apart from the rear indicator stalks and items like clutch adjustment nuts and similar rotating nuts I have never found the need for loctite on a Commando.

Even the Allan screws on the inlet manifolds seem to stay OK.

To save you looking for them there, they cannot get inside the primary drive.

Nortoniggy said:

To save you looking for them there, they cannot get inside the primary drive.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the heads up. BTW, as a matter of routine, I generally use blue loctite on every bolt I’ve ever had to remove and replace. Just a little extra peace of mind.

Not wanting to turn the use of loctite into an oil type thread
The only time I use loctite on a commando is the clutch centre nut
And inner chain case fixing bolts
There's probably a few other places but that's all I can think of

Or, replace standard nuts with nylocs.

I use Nord-lock washers at the engine to transmission cradle fixings.
If you don't want to use a thread locker product then these are the cats meow!

johnm said:

Is this really true?

Apart from the rear indicator stalks and items like clutch adjustment nuts and similar rotating nuts I have never found the need for loctite on a Commando.

Even the Allan screws on the inlet manifolds seem to stay OK.

Click to expand...

Jm you go Tell that to Larry S with his MkIII. I bet he wished he used loctite on a Commando on the inlet manifold.

Each to his own I guess. And we may agree to disagree. On a humorous note, the two that I know of who gave you a "Like click", were also making comments in Larry S post.
YMMV

CanukNortonNut said:

Jm you go Tell that to Larry S with his MkIII. I bet he wished he used loctite on a Commando on the inlet manifold.

Thread 'Heartbreaking pictures'

Jul 31, 2022

Last ride out I was rolling down the road when all of a sudden there was a thunk and an immediate loss of power. Something was not good. Pulled the clutch in and coasted to the roadside and called my buddy for a trailer ride home. Pulled the plugs for a look see down the cylinders. What I saw made me sick to my stomach. Chunks of metal debris everywhere. WTF! Pulled it all apart and this is what I found. A severely bent intake valve that completely destroyed my head and pistons. Amazingly the bores were unscathed. I've finally sourced everything needed to get back on the road, I'm just...

• Larry S
• Replies: 52
• Forum: Norton Commando Forum

• 
• 

Each to his own I guess. And we may agree to disagree. On a humorous note, the two that I know of who gave you a "Like click", were also making comments in Larry S post.
YMMV

Click to expand...

Ouch.

But with respect that a very specific and non standard situation. Cap screws inside inlet ports is a scary situation from first principles.

In that situation I would definitely be looking at a first second and even third way to stop them coming undone.

Similar to a friend currently assembling a race engine from a very non standard set of bits. He is adding weight to the flywheel and will loctite and pean lock screws in place.

I'm basically saying on a street Commando with correctly set isolastics and correctly torqued bolts that I have never had an issue. Rear indicator stalks and rotating components excepted. If you getting a lot of parts shaking off I'd go looking for a root cause.

CanukNortonNut said:

Jm you go Tell that to Larry S with his MkIII. I bet he wished he used loctite on a Commando on the inlet manifold.

Thread 'Heartbreaking pictures'

Jul 31, 2022

Last ride out I was rolling down the road when all of a sudden there was a thunk and an immediate loss of power. Something was not good. Pulled the clutch in and coasted to the roadside and called my buddy for a trailer ride home. Pulled the plugs for a look see down the cylinders. What I saw made me sick to my stomach. Chunks of metal debris everywhere. WTF! Pulled it all apart and this is what I found. A severely bent intake valve that completely destroyed my head and pistons. Amazingly the bores were unscathed. I've finally sourced everything needed to get back on the road, I'm just...

• Larry S
• Replies: 52
• Forum: Norton Commando Forum

• 
• 

Each to his own I guess. And we may agree to disagree. On a humorous note, the two that I know of who gave you a "Like click", were also making comments in Larry S post.
YMMV

Click to expand...

When I used a modified Norton atlas single inlet manifold on my commando I used slotted head screws
And I staked each end of the slot
For anyone fitting a single inlet manifold just fill the two inner fixing holes with silicone
Or buy a manifold that only uses the outer fasteners

baz said:

When I used a modified Norton atlas single inlet manifold on my commando I used slotted head screws
And I staked each end of the slot
For anyone fitting a single inlet manifold just fill the two inner fixing holes with silicone
Or buy a manifold that only uses the outer fasteners

Click to expand...

I use a smidge of silicone sealant on my Amal Mk1's once I have them dialed in and running sweet. The Idle screws and the air screws get some to prevent them from backing out, yet easy enough to remove to make an adjustment. I use blue loctite on the tops and float bowl screws as insurance. I guess its my OCD kicking in

@ Larry S post, I commented about my Inlet manifold coming loose @ #20. Not devastating to my commando but an inconvenience. It would have been worse if I didn't bring my basic tools. It was the Intake manifold stud in my case between the Inlet manifold and the carburettor. I lost the O-ring and some time but gained experience. Loctite helps rather than hinder on a bike that is known to vibrate. Using 242 or 243 loctite on my commando is a good thing IMHO.