Regulators etc

Gents,
I'm looking at the options to replace my zenor and rectifier with a combined unit, and fit a 3 phase high output alternator at the same time.
I have used a Boyer power box previously without complaint, and Roger at RGM recommends them too. I also like the fact that they have a dedicated warning light feed, allowing removal of the warning light assimilator.
But I'd like to know (in laymans terms) how they work. All other brands are clearly designed to dissipate the excess energy as heat through finned alloy bodies, the Boyer isn't finned at all, and they even recommend rubber mounting it!
So Gents, what I'd like to know is:
Is the Boyer unit still the 'unit if choice'?
And, how does it deal with access current?

I suspect the regulator unit switches the stator coils on/off at a high frequency. Current is controlled by varying the time that the coils are "in" the circuit. There is no "excess" energy to be dissipated as heat, since the stator coils are simply open circuited for a part of the duty cycle, and produce no current when open circuited. The voltage at the battery is used as feedback to control the duty cycle.

Don't take this as Gospel truth since I have never been inside a Boyer, nor have I ever found an explanation for how they work, but if I were to design my own regulator, my explanation above is how I would go about it.

Slick

Its like ole Slick says, switching on/off rather than heating up as much as old resister Zenor type regulators but do need to size it for the possible 200+ watts current of the Sparx and 3 phase wiring provision of course. Let the famous vendors guide you for proper matching. Commando's are rubber mounted so about a non issue on vibration tolerance thank goodness.

I have a regulator rectifer from RGM cost about £20 an one of those colour changing LEDs which give you a good indication of what is happening no just it is or is not charging. All very simple to fit an cheaper than Boyer or standard set up. RGM are always helpful an parts come in next days post!! (if like me your in UK) Roger knows his stuff an always makes time to talk to you an will even call you back later if he can't talk to you at that minute.

First they need to convert the AC from the alternator to DC with a diode bridge rectifier as is done in the stock systems. This is now inside the regulator case. The stock Zener(s) are a shunt type regulator. Excess current is diverted to ground through the zener diode when the system voltage starts to rise. That's why it gets hot. The Boyer and POD etc are probably series (aka pass) regulators, where the current is controlled by a transistor and allowed through as needed. The alternator acts the same in both cases. (No high frequency involved. There is a lot of iron in the stator pole pieces.)

This is the short answer.

Recently fitted a A Reg One rectifier / regulator and a Battery status monitor for less than a Boyer. It achieves the same aim and use less space than a Boyer. I have used the Boyer powerbox on another machine with good results as well, even doing away with a battery in the process.

Thanks Gents, good info.

On balance, I think I'll go with the Boyer, and as advised, buy this and the 3 phase stator etc from the same source (RGM in this case).