I know this topic has been covered before, but i thought i would share my experience since i went a different route to get the old lines apart. I saw posts where people were using cutting wheels, chain saws, etc to get the dried up old lines off the fittings, and zip ties and such to put it all back together. I put the old lines into a pot of boiling water, and was able to pull all the fittings apart by hand including the ferrules. I bought a few feet of clear tygon, and also warmed the new lines in water and pushed everything back together, again, including the ferrules. The O.D. of the tygon line was a tad smaller than the original line, so i cut a 1/2" nut (actually the old nut from the rear iso) in half and used it in a vice to crimp down the ferrules. Spent about $12 and a half hour and i'm very pleased to not be buying the pricey new lines! Here's a shot of the crumby old lines when i pulled the bike out of it's hibernation, and a shot of the new semi-shiny ones
rebuilding fuel lines
- Thread starter kevbo82
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40 years? probably not...1 or 2 maybe
tygon is a generic family of plastic. And some are no good for petroleum let alone E-10.
I exclusively use only formula 4040A fuel resistant tygon and do get 8-10 years. The light green color does slowly turn a brownish color but IS still flexible.
Someone said there was a second version that was quite good also but I never got the formula #.
tygon is a generic family of plastic. And some are no good for petroleum let alone E-10.
I exclusively use only formula 4040A fuel resistant tygon and do get 8-10 years. The light green color does slowly turn a brownish color but IS still flexible.
Someone said there was a second version that was quite good also but I never got the formula #.
rvich
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I use hyperbole brand!
FYI - Tygon 2075 Ultra Chemical Resistant Tubing is a plasticizer-free material that is known for its high degree of chemical resistance. It can be used in ink and printing fluid dispensing, paint and solvent production, and is resistant to MEK and other chemicals.
FYI - Tygon 2075 Ultra Chemical Resistant Tubing is a plasticizer-free material that is known for its high degree of chemical resistance. It can be used in ink and printing fluid dispensing, paint and solvent production, and is resistant to MEK and other chemicals.
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I use the yellow tygon, which is fuel specific.
yeah but my bike isn't yellow :roll:swooshdave said:
this is what i bought, appears to be fuel specific. i read a lot of different stuff about the yellow, and what differences might exist with the clear. Again i made a choice for looks, if it doesn't last as long as the yellow so be it.
http://www.power-barn.com/servlet/the-7 ... gon/Detail
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kevbo82 said:
I think the yellow might have a UV inhibitor. But that's just a rumor I'm starting. :mrgreen:
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I would not use the type of fuel line assembly pictured above. It has the fuel line with the "T" Balancers running ahead of the float bowls, which is the earlier 750-type setup. The latter 850 style, with the two 180-degree banjos run the fuel lines to the back side of the float bowls, which are preferred. IMHO.
If you ever blow a head gasket from the backside of the engine with this setup, it might cause some fire works that are very undesirable to your pride and joy. :shock: I believe that is why the latter model fuel lines were changed to reflect lessons learned.
My two cents worth.
Cheers.
Thomas
CNN
If you ever blow a head gasket from the backside of the engine with this setup, it might cause some fire works that are very undesirable to your pride and joy. :shock: I believe that is why the latter model fuel lines were changed to reflect lessons learned.
My two cents worth.
Cheers.
Thomas
CNN
as hard as my dad rode this bike for 20 years (i'll look like a senior citizen in comparison) and it never blew up i'm sure i'll be OK. besides, financially and emotionally i'm over restoring this bike! If anything that costs more than $500 goes wrong in the future i say let it burn :twisted:CanukNortonNut said:
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I know this thread is all about the fuel line, but I see that you re-used the plastic banjo fittings on the bottom of the float bowl. I hope you replaced the screen/seal that goes between the banjo and the bowl. They harden and lose their sealing ability.
I never had good luck with the plastic banjos. They seem to collapse over time, and don't re-seal well, in my experience. I use metal banjos and new screen/seals. And while I am at it, like the last post recommended, I switch to 180 degree banjos, getting rid of two extra fittings and their potential for leaks.
Stephen Hill
I never had good luck with the plastic banjos. They seem to collapse over time, and don't re-seal well, in my experience. I use metal banjos and new screen/seals. And while I am at it, like the last post recommended, I switch to 180 degree banjos, getting rid of two extra fittings and their potential for leaks.
Stephen Hill
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Nice job on the fuel lines KevBo82.
I'm in Horsham PA where you in Bucks?
Bike looks like a nice orig. rider keep it that way!
Marshal
I'm in Horsham PA where you in Bucks?
Bike looks like a nice orig. rider keep it that way!
Marshal
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