Rear wheel lockring

Actually, it is clear from the 2 pictures that the cush one has a smaller flange. I obviously have the boltup one. Thanks for your help.

Rear wheel lockring
Rear wheel lockring
 
Can anyone explain when the "WASHER - BRAKE PLATE PACKING", item 21, should be included? if ever?
As far as I can tell it's only function is to stop the brake drum from flopping around so much on the dummy axle when the wheel is removed. Once the main axle is tightened this washer floats and has no function.


Rear wheel lockring
 

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Can anyone explain when the "WASHER - BRAKE PLATE PACKING", item 21, should be included? if ever?
As far as I can tell it's only function is to stop the brake drum from flopping around so much on the dummy axle when the wheel is removed. Once the main axle is tightened this washer floats and has no function.


View attachment 119566
No - it is the obtain the "correct" depth of engagement of the brake backing plate (including shoes) into the drum.
I am currently going through the exercise of finding what is correct for my bike with shims very kindly supplied by our @Dan1950 .
I am about to try the 0.030" as the 0.015" didn't make much difference.
Cheers
 
Can anyone explain when the "WASHER - BRAKE PLATE PACKING", item 21, should be included? if ever?
As far as I can tell it's only function is to stop the brake drum from flopping around so much on the dummy axle when the wheel is removed. Once the main axle is tightened this washer floats and has no function.


View attachment 119566
Those washers are shims, to allow for manufacturing deviation in the stamped steel backer plate labyrinth seal perimeter flange and the brake drum groove, the drive lug staking as well.
Selected at assembly to compensate for "as built" dimensional tolerance stack up.

Use just enough shim so things don't rub, when assembled.
 
Ah, now I understand! There wasn't one in my rear drum and I thought, looking at the diagram that it went between the dummy axle and the inner (bearing) side of the drum. But now I see that it rests one step further out on the dummy axle and presses on the brake plate.
Well, nothing seems to rub, so I guess I don't need one!
But just for reference, are these 0.015" in thickness?
 
Ah, now I understand! There wasn't one in my rear drum and I thought, looking at the diagram that it went between the dummy axle and the inner (bearing) side of the drum. But now I see that it rests one step further out on the dummy axle and presses on the brake plate.
Well, nothing seems to rub, so I guess I don't need one!
But just for reference, are these 0.015" in thickness?
I never measured the thickness.

In my experience number of shims:

0: The hub is running true, and the brake backing place is not warped at all.
1: Almost always needed to get the hub and brake backing plate to not rub.
2: Rarely needed unless the brake backing plate is warped.
3 or more: Not recommended - straighten or replace the brake backing plate. Each shim added here makes the outer spacer on the timing side harder to get in and spreads the swingarm.
 
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