Rear Isolastics

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openroad said:
I've been trying 01604638505

Has it been changed to 011 44 (0)1946 841517?
011 1604 638505 worked for me. I doubt if it's changed in years. Yeah for you he'll be 6 hours later in the day than you are. 8 am your time will be 2 pm to him.
 
Thanks! I dropped the first 0 of 01604638505 and it went right though. Dunno if that's a me thing or Verizon thing, but I'm pretty sure I made the whole thing harder than it needed to be.
Glad I was ready with my info, Angie was pleasure to speak with.
 
Somewhere I read to leave that first 0 off and it worked for me too. Must be a local thing.
 
Update..
Dealing with Angie was a delight, got the parts I needed, they carry all the same genuine Andover parts. And I wanted to use the softer rubbers with Mick's adjusters.
She mentioned that they watch this forum, and to be sure everything was nice and clean in there before I begin.

Rear Isolastics


I couldn't really get in the tube very well so I found a long 1/2 inch bolt and used a sawzall to cut a slot in the end to hold some fine sandpaper type stuff.

Rear Isolastics

Rear Isolastics

Rear Isolastics


After some finer grit, stuck some Scotchbrite in and finished it off.
Rear Isolastics


I couldn't figure how to put all the stuff back in there without dropping the cradle way down for clearance, so I threaded everything in on the bolt , pulled it out, and raised the cradle and it went back through pretty slick.
Rear Isolastics


I had polished up and coated the bolt pretty well with some anti-seize. The rubbers were coated with the free sample lube, which was actually more needed for the end gaiter which was a total pain.
Rear Isolastics


Then, Mick Hemming's adjuster.
Rear Isolastics


Had a bit of a problem getting the through bolt even on the threads on both sides of the z-plates, but I probably missed some tip somewhere...or maybe it's in the manual, I kinda spaced looking there during this whole thing.

And Angie, thanks for the gift! It'll be used.
 
Glad its fun success for you Openroad but this level mechanics just strains and hurts me to get through with it and extra low mood seeing all the other stuff to spiff up yet, if ever. It takes some 100's of miles for the rear iso to wear settle in to final adjustment that feels good handling w/o buzz. Good job getting iso nuts even, next time decide which side nut is best to remove then locktite the other so the eveness stays for the next fella in there.
 
I got my vernier iso's by phoning Mick Hemmings. +1 to your comment about it being a pleasure to deal with Angie. Nice parts and nice chat - felt if I'd been there in person I would have been offered tea.
 
Sorry fellas, I think that is a really stupid design, and I would operate on it. If I ever have the chance to buy a standard commando, I will do that.
 
acotrel said:
Sorry fellas, I think that is a really stupid design, and I would operate on it. If I ever have the chance to buy a standard commando, I will do that.


Perhaps you should try it, stock, first ?
Before applying any brainwaves..

Plenty of cars have rubber mounts/pads on their engine mounts.
When they are worn out, just fit new ones.
Must be billions of em in use out there ?
Not quite the same thing, but not far off it.
 
Isolastics, when they're off they're awful, but when they're right, they're righteous.
 
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