rear drum barake set up hints

i have replaced the pads in my 1970 fastback rear drum brake but it is not working too well it appears as though the brake is not releasing unless i muck about with it by hand [not advisable by riding ] so any hints out there for setting up this rear brake i will be pulling it down on wednesday
thanks

Hinge a wooden friction lever on like these guys is about best ya can do with Cdo rear drum.

You may have to sand the shoes down a bit (using #60 paper glued to the drum) to get better contact and also to reduce the lever distance. I've heard it helps to enlarge the hole in the backing plate to let the shoes center better in the drum. I tighten the dickens out of the nyloc before tightening the rear axle too. A nut driver works real good for that, it reaches through to the nut where a socket won't.

Dave
69S

the commando drum can be made to work very well if you do it right (which most don't) - as dave mention you may have to sand them a bit ( esp on the edge of the lining so it doesn't grab)- i also scotch brit the inside of the drum to remove any glaze and use brake cleaner on a rag afterwards - if you really want it set up properly vintage brakes (http://www.vintagebrake.com/) is the place - they arc the linings to the drum -

if its sticking, your rear brake cable may need cleaning and relub - and routing of the cable is important too. Also be aware that the original brake lining material was piss poor in its day so you don't want original material, or some thats been on a shelf for 20 years (ferodo lining/shoes are available)

Yes and don't sand in line with the friction motion but across the width not along it eh. My Trixie came with perfect effective rear break able to lock up over 30 mph on pavement, as I discovered once not intending to lean to drift off to a stop with steerable control like a vertical flat tracker slide going where front pointed not the rear out of line somewhat. Never got it back after deer repair sanding and cleaning and setting cable to almost drag tension. I realize this implies its my fault but ain't figured out in what way yet. Shoe witness evenly on drum and for sure fit well prior. I am waiting for the counter point i've worn out the shoes using em so much.

Most likely cause of sticking rear brake is the cam pivot has old, hardened grease, or rust. Dismantle, clean, grease. Grease nipple is there for ongoing maintenance

Reading the original post, I have never had a problem with the spring returning the brake to open on the rear drum, are you sure you have the return spring set up right? The cable is so short I can't imagine it being a problem. Maybe your rear brake switch is hanging up? Anything tight in the rear brake assembly? I think it's worth an inspection of why it's not returning. The spring is plenty strong. Are the sides of the shoes rubbing on the drum?

Dave
69S

ok thanks for the info guys i just slipped the new pads in and hoped for the best so ill pull them apart on wednesday , do a bit of sanding , check the pivot point [which i suspect is the culprit for binding up ] and see how we go thanks 8)
macca

ah i had forgotten to tighten the pivot point bracket once tighten up all was well !

Dang braggart macca handy man! The mental discipline to double and triple check time and time again is worth repeating to this slackard. Will have to keep your over sight in mind next time I'm waiting on brake that ain't showing up it time.

I sent my rear brake to Vintage Brake in Sonoma, CA and got back an excellent stopper. The Commando rear brake will perform very well if setup correctly and the shoes have the right composition.