rear brake shoes (2015)
- Thread starter Onder
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Onder
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I thought of you and the sand paper arcing. But one hates to have to wail on new parts at least
until RGM give me some feedback.
The linings are twice as thick as new stock ones. Fine if you have a full brake shop not so if you
are a bit limited.
Was wondering how precisely it can be done with the shoes mounted on the backing plate
and spinning it on lathe. Anybody has done this, could you chime in?
until RGM give me some feedback.
The linings are twice as thick as new stock ones. Fine if you have a full brake shop not so if you
are a bit limited.
Was wondering how precisely it can be done with the shoes mounted on the backing plate
and spinning it on lathe. Anybody has done this, could you chime in?
Onder said:
You are lucky you have this problem; most new brake shoes require a lot of the brake adjuster to be taken up because they are so slack.
Fairly common practice for the Ferodo racing lining brake shoe lining people- they used to have a race van that went to the UK circuits with a Myford 240 volt High Swing lathe in the back - I would like to know what happened to it.
http://www.lathes.co.uk/myfordcapstan/
scroll down for brake pic.
The brake drum is mounted on a mandrel with oversize shoes and .020 inch shims under the flat part/brake pivot pin where the shoes go. The shoes are turned down to exactly the drum diameter, then the shims are removed, then this is important :!: file a 30degree lead in on the leading edge of the shoes-ignore this and the wheel will tend to grab/lock up :!:
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I have been meaning to arc my shoes for a while now. I purchased an Ammco shoe arcing machine and planned to get it all set up and offer it out.The brakes on my 71 are nearly worthless by todays standards. You will never bed them in with use. I particularly ride mostly where I hardly do any stopping to speak of. I am interested to see the wear pattern on my front shoes whenever I finally get them off to have a look. I know from prior Triumph and Norton drum systems that they can be made to work well enough if everything is "correct" as it were. Dogs comments on the improvement in his front brake after he red neck arced his proves this out. I should not actually use the term red neck. Dogs ingenious method of arcing would be more accurate. I have used a sander to arc 8 shoes on a Brit foreign car as I could not get the drums on. And that was when there was still asbestos in the linings.
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you might send the brake drum and plate complete to Vintage Brake...shouldn't be too much to arc the linings to fit.
+1 on Vintage Brake!seattle##gs said:
Years ago I sent my lazy rear brake, drum and plate, to Mike Morse at Vintage Brake. Got back a wonderful, progressive stopper. Mike knows brakes.
As I posted elsewhere on this website, I had both my drum brakes relined by that brake master Joe Dunphy brakes- racing linings in the front 2LS–because I went racing, brown in the rear.......... they were a class above the normal standard 750 brakes :!: ;
parts-you-dont-regret-buying-t20044-30.html
parts-you-dont-regret-buying-t20044-30.html
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There must be someone with a brake shoe lathe ?
If you want the brake to work and be progressive it's worth the effort, it would not surprise me if Vintage Brake used the same compound (MZ Gold)
#
As far as the OP.
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concours
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Thanks, but I’m not doing the truing/arcing thing. I fix lathes all day long, and, could search a shop to swing it. If I had a drum front, maybe...
But the rear does so little, I’ll not invest the time.
It’s already solved, my parts hoarding paid off. Some GEN-U-INE Taiwanese parts I got years ago saved the day. Fit like a glove in all aspects, cast in steel cam shoe, when in the drum need only a slight movement of the arm to contact.
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Any brake shoe worth buying will require arcing to the drum, RGM should state that as far as a drop in (or not)
The EMGO shoes are no good for the front, stopping time would be measured by calendar.
The problem with this sort of thing is, a good deal of people want a drop in product but how many are going to retain the 40 year old drum compared to buying a new unworn item ( Buy a NOS front Commando hub for instance, I think not )....... Then you have the problem, is the installed brake shoe arc of some random manufacturer's product going to work with some others who made the new drum, maybe, maybe not, hence the need (Especially fronts so you can actually stop with some progression) for oversized shoes so the fit is optimum including hubs that have been machined to a bigger OD for surface refurbishment .
Me, not oversized, not worth buying but more related to the fronts because your life does depend on it, just because you have a 1970's motorcycle does not mean it has to stop like one.... but that again is relating to front drum brake Commando's but a non progressive rear brake can get people into trouble with large prolonged application.
The EMGO shoes are no good for the front, stopping time would be measured by calendar.
The problem with this sort of thing is, a good deal of people want a drop in product but how many are going to retain the 40 year old drum compared to buying a new unworn item ( Buy a NOS front Commando hub for instance, I think not )....... Then you have the problem, is the installed brake shoe arc of some random manufacturer's product going to work with some others who made the new drum, maybe, maybe not, hence the need (Especially fronts so you can actually stop with some progression) for oversized shoes so the fit is optimum including hubs that have been machined to a bigger OD for surface refurbishment .
Me, not oversized, not worth buying but more related to the fronts because your life does depend on it, just because you have a 1970's motorcycle does not mean it has to stop like one.... but that again is relating to front drum brake Commando's but a non progressive rear brake can get people into trouble with large prolonged application.
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