rear brake hub

I just rebuilt the rear brakes and now I am trying to fit the hub on the rim. I replaced the cush rubbers and tried to attach the hub. it looks like one of the cush tabs on the hub is offset (twisted) from the other two. Is this normal or is mine bent? if its normal what is thee best/easiest way to attach the hub to the rim.

its common for the 3 tabs or pins to come loose and rotate in their respective holes, just realign the loose one with a spanner, assemble then wait till more come loose and start destroying your hub.
no doubt some will say its ok to have them loose or attempt to weld them,

I have that problem, and was able to turn it in another turn to make it stable. It is still loose but never has been a problem. I wonder if Hobot's JB weld could be poured into the threads to tighten it up,. I also found fitting new pads in the hub made it dam difficult to get the wheel back on so I ended up grinding to 2 ribs of the thinner ones to make that job easier.
Dereck

You could go back to the non cush hub as the cush hub is just a short term workaround cooked up to avoid early warranty problems it seems.
All I know is that the setup is a hollow joke. Why they went with a cushless drive train makes you wonder. Well, actually it doesnt as these bikes
were nickel dimed to death.
Id not shave down the paddles, rather lube the snot out of the rubbers and just work drum and hub together with a big rubber hammer whilst supporting
the hub fully on wood. Once assembled and in service you will find them loosening up in short order.

The issue of how to tack down is d/t brake shoes passing so close to the paddle/drum face - superficial- JBW or weld bead is too thin to hold long. Solution is weld melt deep enough or grind-drill into seams some, so enough of either remains below the surface to trap twisting permanently. I had a hillybilly stick weld Trixie's inside his cabin clutter but didn't get quite deep enough on one paddle so when I ground some for clearance I later found one paddle's thin tacks cracked. If ya drilled 3 small holes all the way though then just JBW inside might hold better than brittle thin tack weld but could also JBW in a nail or drill bit. I gave up on chewing gum weak factory cushions and only use dead tire side walls now, glued in-set up while paddles inserted so I don't have worry about cushions shifting to replace wheel on side of road in the dark and rain and cold.

" Solution is weld melt deep enough or grind-drill into seams some..........." no, the best solution is



with one piece axle where there is no threaded portion of the axle between the 2 swingarm plates.

I must admit, I like the ease with which the rear wheel can be changed. It is fast compared to other systems. I once had to repair a puncture at a garage up the line from us and the owner of the garage was surprised how quick that wheel came off. He rode a Harley.
That later Cush drive above is certainly a better looking solution I must agree,.
I tried the rubber grease on the Cush rubbers but it was still a pain. I'm happy with grinding off those high spots, as it does make the job a lot easier. So what if they don't last that long, they are not expensive to replace, but I have not needed to yet and I think I have done about 20,000 miles on the new ones.
I presume with that later Cush drive shown above that the bolt goes through from the left hand side and stays in the brake hub when changing the wheel.
Dereck

"I presume with that later Cush drive shown above that the bolt goes through from the left hand side and stays in the brake hub when changing the wheel"
in other posts , members have said it is better to fit the one piece axles from the left side, for the above reason.

After I amortize the cost of an Alton E-Start, my next large expendeture is that hub and cush drive.


JD