Rear brake hub 74 850 commando

cyclegeezer · Jul 16, 2010

Hi everyone, I'm new here and new to Norton's, though I have a couple of vintage Triumphs. I've got my rear wheel apart to replace the shock cushions and find that 2 of the 3 studs that protrude into the shock cavities are loose. Has anyone seen this before and is there a fix other than replacing the hub? Welding? Staking?

pete.v · Jul 16, 2010

They are welded in place from the factory so I would think that a little wire wheeling and light grinding, they could be welded back tight.

These little flux welders at Harbor Freight are the cats ass. Look for them on sale periodically at 90bucks. 120 ac

cyclegeezer · Jul 16, 2010

I took it to my local machine shop and they hit it with a big hammer and drift. Tightened it right up, hope it holds ok. He didn't think much of welding steel to cast iron.

swooshdave · Jul 16, 2010

cyclegeezer said:
I took it to my local machine shop and they hit it with a big hammer and drift. Tightened it right up, hope it holds ok. He didn't think much of welding steel to cast iron.

Someone said it was cast steel, although I too thought it was iron.

pete.v · Jul 16, 2010

pvisseriii said:
They are welded in place from the factory so I would think that a little wire wheeling and light grinding, they could be welded back tight.

These little flux welders at Harbor Freight are the cats ass. Look for them on sale periodically at 90bucks. 120 ac

I maybe wrong here. They may be maching peened in place and your man simply repeened them back home. Sounds ok to me.

cyclegeezer · Jul 16, 2010

I have limited experience, but the 2 I've seen have been peened in place. The one that came with the bike had interesting shapes in the riveting, dished mushrooms, unfortunately it also was worn to the nubs chainwise. The one I am replacing it with had simpler peened rivets.

swooshdave · Jul 16, 2010

cyclegeezer said:
I have limited experience, but the 2 I've seen have been peened in place. The one that came with the bike had interesting shapes in the riveting, dished mushrooms, unfortunately it also was worn to the nubs chainwise. The one I am replacing it with had simpler peened rivets.

Hobot · Jul 16, 2010

cyclegezer, I've had 3 rear hubs loosen their paddles and then twist
and then chew up even 10 ply HD raw rock conveyor belt cushions.
If factory smacking didn't hold up what makes you think and
second time will last long under Norton torque either.

Get me tack welded then grind back bead enough to clear brake parts.
I do this now on perfectly fine paddle before they get loose.

hobot

maylar · Jul 17, 2010

I agree with hobot - if they came loose once then just smaking them back in would be scary to me. If a bead with a MIG is not practical, I'd get a new drum.

cyclegeezer · Jul 17, 2010

I take it from hobot's post that the drum is weldable steel then? And swooshdave's picture is exactly what my worn out hub looks like inside.

Hobot · Jul 17, 2010

Oh yes drum is easy ordinary weldable by any method and such small amounts of
weld need to fix the paddles, ain't no worry with distortion.
Don't need to go all the way around 2-4 tacks is permanent till
the chain teeth dissolve.

I put a dab of weak adhesive on cushions to reduce wheel fit hassle.

If they twist even mild run Cdo will chew up the cushions.
Peel on the other hand with her initial accidental set up,
is what both strained the paddles loose she also incredibly
to me chewed up very tough 10-12 ply rock conveyor belt.
The weak knee'd factory cushions were a big reason I switched
to Water Buffalo hub even if no real loss in mass.

hobot

cyclegeezer · Jul 17, 2010

Thanks everyone for the helpful advice. I got the studs tacked in place and put the rear wheel back together this afternoon. Now to finish up the new wiring harness.

Rear brake hub 74 850 commando

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