rear brake cable with built in switch

The redneck donor bike is on the road, thanks to some fuel system upgrades and some caswell.... I posted this on my redneck donor bike thread, but I don't think many people saw it.

One problem I need a little help with: I bought the OldBritts rear brake cable with the built in brake switch. If I tighten up the cable to
make the brake work well, the brake light won't shut off. If I back off the adjuster enough to get the switch to work right, the brake is really spongy and I can barely stop the bike.....

anybody else have that issue? I noticed that routing the cable is a bit tricky as I try to get around the end of the Z plate.

anybody else have that issue? I have e-mailed Ella and Fred but havn't heard back from them thanks in advance

Karl

I had the same issue. Even without stepping on the rear brake there's a good amount of tension on that cable and those little springs inside the switch can't really handle it by themselves.
To fix it yourself you have to find something that you can stuff in around the cable near those springs to help them out. I ended up cutting a rubber disc out of a rubber bush I had laying around for another bike and using that. Still had to screw around with it to get the right thickness though, so there's no real easy drop-in solution...

I had the opposite problem about a year ago. The spring was way too strong and I had to cut it out and work in a weaker one. Possibly they went too far in fixing the problem and put in too weak of a spring.

that's what I wonder about: I'll wait to see what Fred says.

thanks for getting back to me.

kfh

Let us know, please. I have one comming in the mail now. It was cheaper than getting a new standard cable and stock switch, both of which I needed to replace.

Perhaps a return spring on the brake pedal/lever would help? Since you are using a cable with a switch, I have to assume you are using rearsets, but Walridge Motors has spring that fits around the stock brake pedal pivot and returns the pedal to the stop (and turns off the original brake switch). This would relieve any pressure from the weight of the brake pedal on the switch. It also prevents the pedal from dropping to the pavement should a rear cable break.

Perhaps a return spring on the brake pedal/lever would help? Since you are using a cable with a switch, I have to assume you are using rearsets, but Walridge Motors has spring that fits around the stock brake pedal pivot and returns the pedal to the stop (and turns off the original brake switch). This would relieve any pressure from the weight of the brake pedal on the switch. It also prevents the pedal from dropping to the pavement should a rear cable break

Click to expand...

no, regular brake setup as sold by OldBritts. I pulled the bike into the shed and will try and figure out what's going on. I was wondering whether maybe the brake shoes were too thin (some of the original equipment on the bike. ) but in taking it out, the brakes are smooth and will lock up with enough pressure. It sounds as though it's a matter of fine tuning the spring in the switch mechanism..... I'll yank it apart and report further.

thanks for the feedback , all.

Karl

no, regular brake setup as sold by OldBritts

Click to expand...

If you are not using rearsets, why do you not use the stock switch on the pedal?

the switch mounting bracket was actually rotted and I ground it off, figuring I'd retrofit a Honda or other non -lucas switch at some point, then I found the switch-included cable.....

I may go back to plan A

kfh

71basketcase said:

the switch mounting bracket was actually rotted and I ground it off, figuring I'd retrofit a Honda or other non -lucas switch at some point, then I found the switch-included cable.....

I may go back to plan A

kfh

Click to expand...

With my brake lever, only a portion of the original bracket was left. I drilled and tapped the lever, using small stainless allen screws and washers to mount the switch. It has worked fine, though I hardly ever use the rear brake.

I have one of those integrated brake cable/switches too. Never was able to get it to work well and consistently. So I left it on but reconnected the original switch. FWIW.

Update to the integral switched brake cable problem.

while I'm waiting for the nearly daily rain to end and the clear-coat on my repaired gas tank to cure, I pulled apart the rear brake cable with integral switch:

there is a spring that prevents the contacts from touching when the pedal is not being pressed . I took out some end-nippers and pliers( so I could get a good grab on the 5/16"x3/8" spring) and expanded the very stout spring so that it's probably around 1/8"(3mm) longer than it was when I got the cable. I greased the heck out of the cable and re-assembled. The extra tension in the spring seems to have done the trick. I adjusted the rear brake so that it will efficiently stop me and the brake switch seems to be working correctly.

next week I'll be putting the 71(former) basketcase on the road for the first time in about 25 years!!!!!

I hope this helps those with similar problems.

Karl