Racing Commando 750

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My 850 has never run out of power below 7000 RPM. It is very difficult to avoid over-revving as I accelerate up through the gears. If you are using a 2 into 1 exhaust and you lose top end, the tail pipe might be too small in diameter. The cross-sectional area of the tail-pipe needs to be double that of one of the header pipes. However, noise can become a problem.
I think the carb set up and maybe the timing may have caused the struggle to reach 7000rpm. I have changed the float bowls to the pumped fuel option, and run on 270 jets. (the old 920 had 400 jets fitted - not by me - and ran 100% Avgas. My exhaust is huge, and just get away with 105dB...
 
The size of the exhaust does not guarantee flow. With the 2 into 1 exhaust there are several things to consider. Skinny pipes cause stronger pulses and are easier to get resonating, unequal length header pipes can cause interruption at the collector. If you are using fat pipes, it is difficult to have a tail pipe which is twice the cross-sectional area of one of the header pipes. If you make a 2 into 1 pipe with a tail pipe the same size a header pipe, you can easily lose 2000 RPM of the top of the usable rev range, when compared with separate pipes.. Another thing is the timing of the opening of the exhaust valve. A 2 into 1 pipe usually requires earlier opening to get a stronger pulse in the pipe and get the tail pipe working properly. For al intents and purposes, the flow of gas is continuous, but the pipe needs to resonate strongly without any bumps in the gas flow.
With racing Triumphs, the 1953 race kit had skinny pipes when all road bikes had fat ones up until the first Bonneville came out in 1959. The skinny pipes were better.
My 850 motor has threaded stubs and slip joints with springs at the head to hold the exhausts on. There are no steps anywhere because the ID of the stubs matches the outlet of the exhaust port. What happens in the pipe is sonic, any mismatch in ID causes an obstruction to flow.
With jetting, the needle and needle jet are critical, the main jet is less important but should be slightly rich. On most race circuits, you don't use the main jet long enough to be of major importance.
 
I think your friend who fitted the huge main jets, might have been doing a bit of speculating. Getting the mains right can be difficult, you need a long stretch of uphill road with no cops or traffic. I think for avgas after using petrol, you would probably have to jet leaner because it contains more branched molecules and aromatics. It would not have a much higher latent heat of vaporisation than ordinary petrol. In any case the antiknock is higher with avgas, so it will cop lean better.
 
You've apparently sunk some time and monies into this build and if you race it these expenditures will be the tip of the iceberg. Install an RTD crank triggered ignition and set yourself up to get all there is from the motor. Get it to an eddy brake dyno with a good operator who can tune your engine to the current configuration and map the ignition.

Boyer ignitions are fine for most applications and I have raced with them before but in my opinion, the boyer ignition curve is compromise with regards to engine performance and an over glorified starting ignition retard; not much different from an AAU.

What is RTD ignition ? anything crank triggered would be to the good.
 
No kick start on this monster! Have to start with driven rollers... If you mean talk to Steve Maney, he retired to Thailand about a year ago.

You might still catch him visiting the UK, but probably not in January......

And he is a more of a phone than email guy!
 
Crank triggered might be good, but not if the primary drive gives up and takes it out.
 
If you a racing with a crank triggered ignition system, is the trigger outboard of the sprocket or belt pullie, or behind it ? I cannot see a way that I could fit one to my motor without it tangling with the sprocket. Could you please post a link to a photo of the trigger set-up ? One of my friends fitted a unit off a VT750 Honda to his Ducati which worked very well. He had to play around with the hall effect trigger, but it eventually advanced-up OK.
 
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Inboard of the sheave - between the sheave and engine case. The RTD we use employs an optical trigger, not a hall effect trigger.
 
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