Questions from the Killer!!! (71 750cc Gremlins)

I have a 71 Roadster that has been sitting for almost thirty-three years. (If your wondering why I would let it sit for that long some answers can be found under an earlier post titled,
” Confession of a Norton Killer.”) The bike has total of 9,542 miles, neither the fuel nor oil were drained from her systems, nor was she prepared properly for an extended hibernation. I did get curios about ten years ago to see if she was frozen. I was able to ultimately kick her over, but I recall, initially she was reluctant to move. I never attempted to start her!

I see a rebuild in her near future. I am thinking that I’ll focus on returning her to stock condition. I am going to do as much of this restoration as I can and likely more than I should!

The pictures will verify that I have a complete bike but cosmetically I don’t have a lot to work with! Its obvious the following items will need to be replaced: headlight, handle bar, mirrors, rims, mudguards, foot pegs, lower controls, fork stations and basically everything chrome, that is rusted. Also on the replacement list is all the rubber; footrest, grips, tires, isolator rubbers and tank mounting. I am sure there will also be countless bolts and nuts added to the list.

I will reuse the tank, side covers, hubs & brake drum system, electrical system and fork legs. I know these systems have their issues and I’ll be asking plenty of questions about them, as well as sourcing the above parts in the future.

Naturally the majority of the posts on this forum pertain to the majority of the commandos on the road,namely the 850cc models. I have read about problems with the 850’s lay shaft bearings; oil sumping issues, crank rods, valve guides etc...

What about the 71 750cc models? My current concerns are the unknowns, the problematic areas, you know, the specific gremlins that are lurking deep inside my 71- 750 commandos motor and trans.

Questions! Edit: Question!!!!
1. What are the typical issues that need to be addressed with the 1971 750cc motor and trans?

Edit: Disregard the following questions!
2. Should I consider attempting to start her up prior to restoring her?
3. When should I consider re-chroming rather than replacing?


I am really embarrassed to share these photos, but you asked for them!

Stock with three exceptions:,oil cooler, koni shocks, paint.

The Paint was done by a high-school friend who became well know painting murals on buildings in S.F. Mission district.

Trying to fire it up will require so many things to do before hand like rebuilding the carbs, validating electronics, flushing the oil system and gearbox, freeing the clutch and countless other things. Even if you do manage to start it, the fact that it has been sitting for so long, there are so many thing that can be tight if not frozen or clogged in some manner that could result in catastrophy. Save your vital componants by stripping it down. Catagorize, label, clean and bag. Again, even if you could start it, you couldn't ride it. Late October? Great time to begin shop setup.
Rechrome if practical. Sooo much stuff available. Weigh it out as you rescearch. Sounds like you could get a batch price.
I am envious in a way. It will be great to follow your progress. Welcome aboard.

I wouldn't worry about firing it up. Most likely something will be damaged and be an extra cost. On the 71, the mudguards and lamp shell, exhaust, chain guard are available, probably more reasonable than chroming, but check. It costs about $150 and up for chroming a fender. That year they started with the stainless fenders, I think, you can polish them up to look like chrome. Your AL parts look polish-able. Break it down and send out the stuff you can't do. I sent out only my head to Memphis for re-work, I did the bottom end and it wasn't bad with the proper few tools. New rings, pistons, bottom end kit. Clean out the crank sump. If you're worried about gasket leaks, Permatex Hylomar will do it. I've had wet sump oil in my case for a week now and no leaks from the flanges. Media blast the AL head, barrels, crank half's, unless you can get someone to do walnut blasting, but that also leaves oil in the cases. You can re-lace the wheels with stainless spokes and get what ever rims you want. I powder coated my frame and tree parts, but some prefer paint.

But it all depends on where you want to end up. I ended up with a 69 'S' that I think looks better than it did off the showroom floor. I did nearly all of my own work and wrenching and spent maybe $5K over 5-8 years. Hundreds of my own hours, but then I have my own time, but not unlimited money.

Dave
69S

pvisseriii said:

Trying to fire it up will require so many things to do before hand like rebuilding the carbs, validating electronics, flushing the oil system and gearbox, freeing the clutch and countless other things. Even if you do manage to start it, the fact that it has been sitting for so long, there are so many thing that can be tight if not frozen or clogged in some manner that could result in catastrophy. Save your vital componants by stripping it down. Catagorize, label, clean and bag. Again, even if you could start it, you couldn't ride it. Late October? Great time to begin shop setup.
Rechrome if practical. Sooo much stuff available. Weigh it out as you rescearch. Sounds like you could get a batch price.
I am envious in a way. It will be great to follow your progress. Welcome aboard.

Click to expand...

Starting it up was just a bit of a pipe dream. I agree that the time would be better spent stripping her down. I plan on carefully categorizing my parts and taking lots of pictures to be used as reference for the reassembly. She has been covered for so long. The camera gave me a new vantage point that I haven't seen in years, rust and all I am still excited to see her again! I like the thought of perusing a batch price!
Thanks, Gary

DogT said:

I wouldn't worry about firing it up. Most likely something will be damaged and be an extra cost. On the 71, the mudguards and lamp shell, exhaust, chain guard are available, probably more reasonable than chroming, but check. It costs about $150 and up for chroming a fender. That year they started with the stainless fenders, I think, you can polish them up to look like chrome. Your AL parts look polish-able. Break it down and send out the stuff you can't do. I sent out only my head to Memphis for re-work, I did the bottom end and it wasn't bad with the proper few tools. New rings, pistons, bottom end kit. Clean out the crank sump. If you're worried about gasket leaks, Permatex Hylomar will do it. I've had wet sump oil in my case for a week now and no leaks from the flanges. Media blast the AL head, barrels, crank half's, unless you can get someone to do walnut blasting, but that also leaves oil in the cases. You can re-lace the wheels with stainless spokes and get what ever rims you want. I powder coated my frame and tree parts, but some prefer paint.

But it all depends on where you want to end up. I ended up with a 69 'S' that I think looks better than it did off the showroom floor. I did nearly all of my own work and wrenching and spent maybe $5K over 5-8 years. Hundreds of my own hours, but then I have my own time, but not unlimited money.

Dave
69S

Click to expand...

Dave,
I have been following your build for several months. I have a good idea of what you accomplished and your project has been a hugh inspiration. Now you just need to get her sorted out so you can enjoy her!
I, like you have the time, not sure about the money!
Gary

Looks good to me and i have started with worse, i sugest you try and re chrome the guards as stainless were not available untill 1972 and the front guard was i beleive wider you may have to hunt around to get a good plater all the best.
Al