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Would you buy a QPD Belt Drive at this point? Does it use proprietary steel plates? Can you get replacement belts?
QPD Belt Drive
- Thread starter swooshdave
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I had a few dealings with Bob ‘Ozzie’ Oswald a few years back - he was trying to finalise his retirement back then.
He mentioned he was trying to get his son (or it may have been son-in-law) to take the reins of the business but wasn’t showing much interest.
He uses standard Barnett friction plates, but his plain plates are proprietary and his own design.
His clutch basket is his own design, so would not accommodate other plain plates.
Personally, I feel that it would be too much of a risk buying one at this point.
There are lots of other great options available!
He mentioned he was trying to get his son (or it may have been son-in-law) to take the reins of the business but wasn’t showing much interest.
He uses standard Barnett friction plates, but his plain plates are proprietary and his own design.
His clutch basket is his own design, so would not accommodate other plain plates.
Personally, I feel that it would be too much of a risk buying one at this point.
There are lots of other great options available!
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Is this a "no way"?
Fast Eddie
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No I would not.
Matts kit is very good, and gives the option of a cheaper e start in future if you want. On stock gearing though.
Norvil kits are good too. And they do a whole range of different ratios etc.
Steve Maney is still selling his excellent kit too, which raises the gearing.
Matts kit is very good, and gives the option of a cheaper e start in future if you want. On stock gearing though.
Norvil kits are good too. And they do a whole range of different ratios etc.
Steve Maney is still selling his excellent kit too, which raises the gearing.
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Last time I communicated with Steve he was trying to get rid of his existing stock. I don't know if he has any left.
seattle##gs
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When it is "overdriven" ,by altering the pulley sizes, I believe it makes it harder to kick over. I ran into this building an 850 and it was definitely more trouble to kick over even with the MK3 lever. That probably explains why Mat uses the standard ratio.....to make life easier for his starter motor. I have had very little trouble with a stock Norton gearbox so I will stay with stock pulleys. Racing is another ball of wax.
you have this backwards. when you overdrive it from the engine to the gearbox it is underdriven from the gearbox to the engine. think of as trying to bumpstart it in 1st vs in 2nd it will be easer in 2nd but it is a higher gear going down the road. as to the CNW starter the primary ratio has NOTHING to do with the starter gear train.
and swooshdave i meant to say i would NOT buy the QPD.
and swooshdave i meant to say i would NOT buy the QPD.
Fast Eddie
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He told me he’d got about 20 kits left when I spoke to him last week...
baz
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If you mean overdriven IE use a larger engine pulley? This makes it easier to kick over
I've done it on mine with a norvil kit
seattle##gs
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Perhaps "over driven is the wrong word. We put an 850 motor in a featherbed frame, changed the mainshaft in the gearbox in order to use the Commando clutch, and used an RGM belt drive. The result was that it required A LOT of effort to kick it over. I went through EVERYTHING trying to find any resistance and everything spun freely and smoothly. The motor has the JS rods and pistons. Since I am unable to compare the pulleys to the original sprockets I cannot say the ratios are identical. Somewhere I heard the ratios are slightly different so I believe that is what's making it more difficult to kick over. I can't find anything else. We installed the MK3 lever and that helped a bit. Am I correct?
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I would look at the compression and cam before pointing a finger at the belt drive.
a stock commando primary ratio is approx. 2.2 -1 and an RGM belt is approx 2-1 you need to find out just what ratio you have before you talk about the bike being hard to kick over because of the belt drive. if you have a ratio over 2.2 say 2.3-1 that is one place to look as to why it is hard to kick.
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