Push pull fuel tap rebuild

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Working on a bike which hasn't run in years. The brass plunger won't move. I got it soaking overnight with a gallon of fuel in the tank.
Fuel is not flowing out the tap, although the plunger looks stuck all the way out.

Are these taps serviceable?
 
Yes and no. There should be a small screw that keeps the plunger from coming out and allows it to twist on-off. With the screw out try to twist while pulling on the plunger. There are original cork type seals and small viton rubber o-ring seals available. In my experience the replacement cork often needs to be trimmed a bit and the o-rings make the plunger stick (swells with the gas?). I’ve yet to have a successful rebuild and bought new replacements in the end.

Scott
 
You can whittle out new cork discs from wine bottle corks in a pinch.
 
There is info on rebuilding here:

A trick to get the plunger out ..... drill a small hole in the body in front of the plunger. Apply a compressed air nozzle and blow the plunger out, or drift it out with a pin punch. Afterwards, solder the hole.
 
Once the side screw is undone, double nutting the threaded brass body cylinder will pull it out?

After leaving overnight with fuel in the tank, zero fuel came out to the carb. Still no movement on the lever.

Will try a little heat and some penatrant. Maybe putting a washer under the acorn nut will draw it out.

Don't want to damage the brass threads or break the rod.
 
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Pic Push pull fuel tap rebuild
 
Used 3 washers, some heat and penetrant. Elastomer looks good, one small nick. Any suggestions on next steps?
Push pull fuel tap rebuild
 
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Used 3 washers, some heat and penetrant. Elastomer looks good, one small nick. Any suggestions on next steps?
 
I have seen that article. Forgive my ignorance here but why do you need to drill? Can't you just use a punch to separate the parts if the rubber or cork needs replacing?

Now that this brass assembly is separated from the tap body, I am tempted to just clean, lube and reinstall it.
The elastomer (which I now see is just darkened cork) is in pretty good shape and still a snug fit in the tap body.
 
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Any suggestion for lubricant/grease to use in order to keep the cork from sticking, and help seal it up, at least for a while?
 
I have seen that article. Forgive my ignorance here but why do you need to drill? Can't you just use a punch to separate the parts if the rubber or cork needs replacing?

Now that this brass assembly is separated from the tap body, I am tempted to just clean, lube and reinstall it.
The elastomer (which I now see is just darkened cork) is in pretty good shape and still a snug fit in the tap body.

Drilling is necessary to reassemble the spool and shaft. The spool is staked into the shaft; when you drift it out you will lose the grip which is necessary for the shaft to pull the spool. Most likely, if you try to re-stake it, it will fail over use. Drilling for the roll pin prevents that.

I have found no ultimate lubricant. Most lubes will be washed out by the fuel .... gasoline, after all is a very good solvent. I have heard bar soap works about as well as anything. Lip balm may be a good substitute, but not Vaseline which is soluble in gasoline.

Slick
 

EZ TURN seems to be your solution.............
 
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