Protecting Polished alloy

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I have polished the alloy wheel rims on my bike and would like to know what is the best way of protecting them form the road salt, atmosphere etc.
 
The best I have ever found, was good old fashioned Simonize wax. I only wish it were more permanent.

I hope others can tell us of something better.

Slick
 
I found just leaving it in the garage works the best. :D
But wax works too.
 
You can get clear powdercoat these days.
I've wondered how that would go on polished alloy rims....

So, anyone tried it. ?
 
Rohan said:
You can get clear powdercoat these days.
I've wondered how that would go on polished alloy rims....

So, anyone tried it. ?

I suspect it will get gimped up first time you change a tire. I have considered this for things like timing and gearbox covers.
 
yep I tried the clear powdercoat on some polished mags on a Suzi LC1500, it sure made them low maintenace but makes them look a bit plastic, certainly wouldnt recommend it on your classic iron.
 
Surely the alloy bits would need some sort of etch primer, or anodising first? Otherwise the clear powder coat would just fall off after a while, because al. alloy will be corroding away under the clear coating.
cheers
wakeup
 
The clear coating should keep the moisture out. ?
Although not all powdercoat is the same, it must be noted.
Japanese engine cases are coated with something, what do they use. ?

Anyone tried anodising ?
Maybe I should have tried a more neutral colour. ?
And polished it first...

Protecting Polished alloy
 
Nothing works like routine off the shelf elbow grease and hard wax. Any significant clear "coat" will distract from the mirror gleam in our eyes. Wheel clear is pretty good to delay the ughlies by mainly not looking as dull stained as weathered alloy but not all that shiney smooth up close. Nicked and abraded power coat would take new process to remove from notice. Peel's long term inside stored stuff has custom car treatment but only the first coat that lifts stuff out of micro pores to leave suspended above surface which is what the 2nd part is used to remove to best gleam. The show car reports say they drive to meets and just wire down for 2-3 yr before time to touch up. i and others have handled her alloy for processing and find most smudges do rub out. I expect to repolish before final installs so mostly saving starting with 2000 grit before buffer wheeling grades to carrier wax removal powder then steam-flame anodizing before turtle wax.

Yet we are past the jet and space age into the nano age...
https://www.google.com/#q=nano%20aluminum%20protectant
 
Rohan said:
Japanese engine cases are coated with something, what do they use. ?

I'm not sure about engine covers but maybe it is a hard clear anodising,The Excel rims on my DR have held up to 1000's of off road kms,but they are not a mirror polish even when new,they have a hard coating as far as I know (anodising) and have never touched them with any form of polish.
There have been a few wonder products but personally have found on polished rims,Autosol itself leaves some form of barrier that lasts 6 months or so,pooled water can be a problem on bikes used all year round especially on flanged rims.
CRC silicone spray used carefully and good quality lanolin spray works also but not long term being similar to wax based polish.
 
Gidday All.
there used to be a product but I dont know if it is still available. Tectyl 151 or 159, not sure of the number. a clear substance used as corrision protection in marine environment salt water. made for applying to aluminium.
I have used this myself with reasonable results. works well, lasts about 18 months and can easily be removed with solvent. Does not dull auminimum. try on something small like gearbox clutch cable cover plate to determine if it is for you. hope this helps Bradley
 
Bern, I live on an island so the salt air is enough to keep me busy, road salt must be a nightmare. and not just on your rims.
I never had any problems with the powdercoated clear on the wheels I did , even dog piss didnt worry them. Tire changing just required a bit of care, I always did that myself and still do.
I had Queensland Nameplates in Brisbane do anodizing for me , very good but expensive now no doubt.
Tons of anodized parts rims etc for the little shit boxes here, after 6 mths in the sun the anodize starts fading.
I 've stripped the colored anodizing off the rims here for the little shit boxes with a mix of 1-4 drain cleaner and water, rips it straight off, there is anodizing and anodizing. but the finish is on par with clear powdercoat, you lose that shine.
constant attention is the go. I use California Purple polish , I wouldnt use anything else I used to think Autosol was the go and before that Goddards Glow, wouldnt use either of them ever again.
 
I have had a pair of Jap cast alloy wheels powdered coated black, but these were shot blasted clean first, and I had to take them back as he didn’t cover the rims fully the first time.
Anodizing comes in many colours and as usual the rims will have to be clean before it is applied or it will not take. I have alloy rims that are not of the best quality finish and need to be rubbed with emery cloth to remove the rough parts then rubbed with wet & dry before polishing, all one of the wonderful joys of owning motorcycles :?: :cry:
I rather be out riding :(
 
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