I tested a tank that I built by using a bicycle tire pump. Get the necessary fitting to thread an ordinary tube type valve stem into one of the fuel tap bungs. These are available at low cost as they are a standard item fitted to a well water pressure tank. Put a plug in the other tap bung unless you are certain that that fuel tap shuts off totally. Plugging up the filler neck requires some imagination. I used a solid plug cut out of a piece of 2" thick wood, the cut done with a hole saw. I stretched a ballon over the bung so that it would easily seal when tapped lightly into the filler neck.
You do not want more than about 2 lbs air pressure max, even a pound will do. Do not use an air compressor supply and tire inflater, this method destroys tanks instantly. A friend spent $6,000 having a very rare fuel tank taken apart, pounds of lead filler removed, much body work done, put back together, resoldered, gold leafed and painted.
He then blew the tank up with a tire inflator, looking for a leak which turned out to be in the petcock, not the tank!
He is now up to $10,000 after sending the tank to the Ross Thompson sheet metal hospital (beautiful work) and yet another gold leaf/ high end paint job.
I found that twenty strokes of the bike pump gave about 1.5 lbs. Pressure, however yours may differ. The only way to be sure is to fit an accurate low pressure gauge into one or other bung. Even with the bike pump it is fairly easy to destroy a tank. I have another friend who built his own al. tank then destroyed it while checking for leaks with a bike pump. He pumped the tank up to 15 psi, much too high.
Once the air was in, I immersed my tank in water, same as is done to find a leak in an inner tube.
If you think you know the general area for the leak, as an alternative to submersing the tank (best) you can make up a small dish of soapy water and brush it on the suspect area(s) . This, plus pressure leakdown tests, is how gas fitters check for leaks.
Glen