Practical Custom Wiring

swooshdave · May 31, 2010

Because there can never be too many threads on understanding wiring... :mrgreen:

Also my last wiring for dummies thread is a bit long. Let's see if I can make some sense of it.

wiring-for-super-dummies-t5603.html

So what I want to do is actually show the components and their wires and how they relate to the sometimes confusing wiring diagrams. Keep in mind that this is a custom harness so it may not have application to the stock harness.

My last attempt at the diagram still needs some work. I think a lot will be cleaned up once I get my junction block.

So for example:

on the diagram looks something like this:

and

I know from the Podtronic wiring diagram:

That the Yellow wires will go to the two alternator wires and it won't matter which. Then I know the black goes to Ground and the Red will junction with a Brown/White (I think I may be using Brown/Blue instead, Brown/White may have been from later models) to the ignition switch and carry further to the battery (with plenty of fuses).

Hmmm, am I making this easier or even more confusing? :shock:

speirmoor · May 31, 2010

Put the Red wire on the other battery terminal is easier?

swooshdave · May 31, 2010

speirmoor said:
Put the Red wire on the other battery terminal is easier?

Like I said I won't really know until I get the junction box.

Coco · Jun 1, 2010

speirmoor said:
Put the Red wire on the other battery terminal is easier?

Red needs to get power from the battery terminal. It is a good idea to use an inline fuse between the regulator and positive connection on the battery there as well. Depending upon what you do with a junction box as you mention.

swooshdave · Jun 1, 2010

Sadly this one makes more sense that any other one I've seen.

:mrgreen:

swooshdave · Jun 1, 2010

http://www.sherco-auto.com/raptorbat.htm

Pretty cool item. Not sure if it's applicable but a built in Volt meter is sweet. Comes from the audio world. Under $20.

swooshdave · Jun 1, 2010

Assuming this sort of fuse block is the wiring correct?

grandpaul · Jun 1, 2010

I would use the "spare" terminal for the tail light circuit.

swooshdave · Jun 1, 2010

grandpaul said:
I would use the "spare" terminal for the tail light circuit.

Speaking of which, only two wires coming from the tail light... do I need to open it back up and affix a proper ground?

Diablouph · Jun 1, 2010

Now Swooshdave, you knew the answer to that question before you placed your first finger on the keyboard.

swooshdave · Jun 1, 2010

Diablouph said:
Now Swooshdave, you knew the answer to that question before you placed your first finger on the keyboard.

I was hoping that some sort of faery magic happened between the switch and the light. Kind of like how if you kick Tinkerbell in the arse she glows brighter...

grandpaul · Jun 1, 2010

As long as you have a good clean mechaincal connection between the fender and frame, a hard ground between the frame and engine, and a hard ground between the headlight bucket and frame, everything should ground just fine, especially with individually fused circuits.

swooshdave · Jun 1, 2010

grandpaul said:
As long as you have a good clean mechaincal connection between the fender and frame, a hard ground between the frame and engine, and a hard ground between the headlight bucket and frame, everything should ground just fine, especially with individually fused circuits.

Except on the tail light which I think is insulated by a nice powdercoated bracket. I'll just be safe and run a proper ground for the tail light.

Coco · Jun 1, 2010

I'd run a ground off the tail light and simply ground it to the rear crossmember of the frame, but I drilled a common rear ground point there on my MKIII. I'm sure there are other ground points to hide a ground wire.

swooshdave · Jun 1, 2010

Coco said:
I'd run a ground off the tail light and simply ground it to the rear crossmember of the frame, but I drilled a common rear ground point there on my MKIII. I'm sure there are other ground points to hide a ground wire.

So far I'm not going to sweat it if there are two or three wires running from the back to the battery box area. They'll all tuck behind the frame rail for now and when the proddy seat goes on you'll never see them.

swooshdave · Jun 1, 2010

See, I did something tonite. Granted not much... but one day the rear light might work. I emphasize "might".
I did run a proper ground from the tail light. Just needed to attach a ring to the tail light mount screw.

Can anyone tell me the best way to run the alternator wires? You obviously want to keep them away from the sprocket. Should they run inside the cradle? Under it? Over the top?

speirmoor · Jun 2, 2010

one wire is ground and the other is for the taillight I presume but how did you get the brakelight to work?

RoadScholar · Jun 2, 2010

I highly reccomend that you carry a ground wire (path) to all components that comsume power; a 18 ga is sufficient for the tail section, a 14 is good for the headlight, and that you tie them all together either at the headsteady or somewhere in the battery area. If you have a fully functional Mk III use 6ga for the hot and ground for the starter.

I used 2 relays, one for the horn and one for the brake light, that way I could run 18 ga control wires to the bars and not worry about current flow.

I also reccomend a Centech:

http://www.centechwire.com/catalog/panels/ap1.shtml

And wire all your circuits separately, so that no single failure (outside your ignition circuit) will strand you.

RS

swooshdave · Jun 2, 2010

speirmoor said:
one wire is ground and the other is for the taillight I presume but how did you get the brakelight to work?

I didn't. How does the tail light work? How does the brake light work? I don't have a battery handy so I didn't function check, just continuity (and I didn't like what I found...)

grandpaul · Jun 2, 2010

speirmoor said:
one wire is ground and the other is for the taillight I presume but how did you get the brakelight to work?

One wire for tail light, the other wire for brake light. The apparatus is grounded through it's metallic mounting to the frame.

Practical Custom Wiring

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